The Blurb
The Gladwin Brothers are renowned for bringing the countryside and their ethos – local and wild – to the cosmopolitan heart of London, through their excellent clutch of restaurants (Sussex in Soho, Rabbit in Chelsea and The Shed in Notting Hill). Their latest venture – The Pig’s Ear in Chelsea – is their attempt to bring ‘local boozer’ together with what they already do brilliantly; serve hearty but elegant seasonal fare. Gastropub as it should be done!
The Style
Small but perfectly formed, The Pig’s Ear sits at a corner of Old Church Street and couldn’t be more inviting. The interior is cosy with crackling fires, deep dark paintwork, eccentric Victoriana décor and plenty of classic leather chairs and sofas to spread out on. For anyone who’s eaten at any of the other Gladwin Brothers establishments, the menu won’t come as a total surprise, but that’s certainly no bad thing. No need to mess with hearty foodie perfection!
The Food
Speaking of, the menu prioritises sustainability and seasonality above all else, so expect an autumnal feast if you visit any time soon. From meltingly slow-cooked venison to as good-as-freshly-out-the-river chalk stream trout, the compact menu should have something to please everyone.
The mushroom marmite eclairs are things of beauty (though at £3.50 for just one, are possibly on the mean portion side), and we couldn’t resist ordering some delicious Lindisfarne oysters to start at £22 a dozen (they were, after all, laid out temptingly in a barrel full of ice at the entrance). For our mains, the fallow deer with hen-of-the-woods mushrooms and celeriac puree (£28) was a deep, dark delight to eat, while the Tamworth pork belly (£24) had fat that melted into sweet, lip-smacking meat so perfectly the plate was practically licked clean. And it isn’t just meat the Gladwin chefs excel at; our side of hispi cabbage with dukkha and fermented chilli was the perfect umami foil to both. Without question, save room for dessert, as the chocolate mousse with butterscotch (£10) managed to be both light and decedent, and the sticky toffee tarte (£8) was like all the best memories of childhood puddings pulled off with elegant flair.
The Drink
As the Gladwin Brothers have their own Sussex vineyard it made sense to taste some of the English Sparkling that they champion. Their own Nutty Wild (£10.50) and Nutty Vintage (£12.50) sparkling wines were perfect starts to the meal. After that, the wine list branches out a little more, and I paired a lovely light Primitivo (£6.50 a glass, £19 for a carafe) with my venison while a Bacchus from Nutbourne vineyards (again, at £11 a glass, £33 for a carafe) helped cut through the fatty richness of my husband’s pork dish.
In a Nutshell
Whether it’s a post-work or Sunday pint you’re craving or a slap-up meal with friends, family or loved ones, The Pig’s Ear is your slice of a country pub in the elegance of Chelsea. Yet another triumph for the Gladwyn brothers!
The Details
The Pig’s Ear, 35 Old Church Street, Chelsea, SW3 5BS
Tel: 020 3026 0466
