The Blurb
With a remarkable location on Knightsbridge’s Hyde Park Corner, across from the greenery of Hyde Park, The Lanesborough is a well-preserved Regency landmark and one of London’s finest, five-star hotels. This April, the proud, patrician property introduced a new flagship restaurant, The Lanesborough Grill, with renowned British Chef Shay Cooper. Cooper is Michelin bait for hotels: The Bingham Hotel in Richmond earned a Michelin star under his watch, as did The Goring, which was awarded its first Michelin Star during his tenure as Executive Chef. Cooper was also responsible for the relaunch of the beloved Notting Hill staple, Julie’s.
The Style
Stepping into The Lanesborough Grill is like stepping into a scene in Bridgerton: Wrapped in powdery blue and bedecked in Grecian motifs and crystal chandeliers, this is Recency romance exemplified. The restaurant is spread out under a theatrical glass atrium and seats consist of overstuffed sofas and plump armchairs. Modern art stops it from being too stuffy, while the Gueridon trolleys, towering banana trees, and trio of oversized chandeliers add the right amount of old-world glamour.
The Crowd
Word has not gotten out of how good this restaurant is: that is the only explanation I have for why it wasn’t packed to the gills on a recent Thursday night. The guests that were in attendance seemed mainly to be visitors, but as soon as word spreads, the locals are sure to take over.
The Food
It took me a long time to decide what to eat—the menu is that exciting. With starters like buttermilk fried quail and charred octopus together with mains of grilled monkfish and poached native lobster, this is innovated British cuisine at its best. The ingredients are fresh and local, with attention paid to provenance, and the arrangement is exciting, creative, and gorgeous. Each colourful dish compels you to take its photo, and—more importantly—each dish tastes as good as it looks. It’s rare to find a restaurant that does delicate and delicious so exceedingly well: the well-crisped fried quail has the addictive quality of a fast-food guilty pleasure, while other dishes, like the Orkney scallop, served raw with Marinda tomato, toasted hazelnuts, and smoked rapeseed oil, is so refined and dainty that you want to eat is slowly, savouring every bite and tasting something new each time. Don’t skip the side dishes (especially the hash brown potatoes and the buttered spinach with garlic and chilli), and whatever you do, save room for dessert! The caramelised brioche pudding, with burnt orange puree and creamy milk ice cream, is the kind of dessert I will dream about until I can taste it again.
The Drink
I love a good wine pairing, and our sommelier did not disappoint with a range of fantastic picks. We started with a sip of English bubbly from the famed Gusbourne, which felt appropriate given the oh-so-British setting. But then, we went further afield with a classic French Burgundy to pair with the English striploin, dripping in bone marrow; Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand to pair with lobster; and a particularly gorgeous noble Riesling for dessert from the lauded Pegasus Bay from the Waipara Valley of New Zealand.
In a Nutshell
A gorgeous Regency outfit with modern British fare that’s perfect for special occasions.
The Details
Hyde Park Corner, London SW1X 7TA
020 7259 5599
