Open Mon–Sat; lunch midday–2.30pm; dinner 6pm–10.30pm
I’d had my eye on The Gate for a while as I always think it’s strange there aren’t more veggie restaurants in London. There are now more reasons than ever to avoid meat; if the cruelty argument doesn’t move you, the environmental one (drain on water resources, soil damage, the pesticides and chemicals required to grow feed) should be reason enough to chow down on a little less cow. What with the fish running out too, eating fewer animals just seems sensible, even for an out and proud carnivore like me.
Around the corner from the Hammersmith Apollo, The Gate is on the first floor of a building that must have been holy. ‘It just smells like a church’ said my dining companion as we ascended. The main room has a double-height roof and is filled with light as a result of the floor-to-ceiling windows that run down one side. Curious art on the walls speaks of war and peace – stealth bomber outlines filled with visions of Eden.
Fantastic oil and bread were the first things placed in front of us, both a little warm, the oil infused with garlic, thyme, parmesan and pancetta. A wonderful start. The mezze platter (£18 for two people) is a good way to sample a variety of starters and is an artistically colourful plate. Six bite-sized mezze turned up, including a delicately mushroomy risotto cake and a spicy Indo-Iraqy potato cake, filled with Indian-spiced vegetables and accompanied by apple and coriander chutney. The grandmothers of the owners Adrian and Michael Daniel are to thank for such interesting and tasty grub. The boys say it was their blending of Indian, Arabic and Jewish food that influenced their menu.
By this point the restaurant was packed. A main of ravioli (£12.50) made of artichoke, dolcelatte and basil sounded amazing but was actually a little nondescript; it was saved by sage-scented lemon butter and a beautifully sweet cherry tomato salsa. The laksa (£12.75) had a curry appearance and tasted heavily of lemongrass but seemed a bit ordinary after the knockout starter. We tried the polenta chips out of curiosity and they summed up what can be the problem with veggie food – they were a bit tasteless; tasting mostly of the oil they were cooked in. Eton mess (£5.50) and dulce de leche cheesecake (£6) were similarly unremarkable. The wine list is good and service is friendly and breezy. We left with beautifully clear consciences, though our taste buds felt a little hard done by.
Dinner for two, with wine £95
