The Cadogan restaurant
The Cadogan Hotel restaurant is 'championing homegrown grub, which deserves our support'

The Cadogan Hotel Restaurant

Open for lunch midday–2.30pm; dinner 6.30pm–10.30pm

You might have heard of The Cadogan – famously, it’s the place where Oscar Wilde was arrested for fooling around with another man back in 1895. If there’s any fooling around going on there now, it’s not in the kitchen, as we found out over three courses. The room is stately and exudes an air of calm dignity with delicate cornice embroidering the walls and ceilings. The roar of Sloane Street’s traffic is inaudible here and when our fellow diner (a blue blazered Chelsea duffer spouting reminiscences) paused for breath, the only sound was piano muzak – something they should do away with.

The menu delivers food honoured by the Great Taste awards, handed out to leading small British food producers. Hooray to that as it’s certainly a time when we need to be investing in our own economy. Two types of bread to dip into lemon-infused rapeseed oil and cobnut oil was a great start – a welcome change from olive oil and British to boot. Potted brown shrimps from Southport were buttery and fishily aromatic, with enough flavour to shame so many bland tasting farmed prawns. Similarly, a trio of salmon (wild, seared, tartare) tasted so fresh it only needed the simple additions of a little fennel and dill to compliment it. Both proved that when the basic ingredients are good, you don’t need to do too much to them.

By this point the hotel had filled up with a variety of guests showcasing London’s multiculturalism: a group of Chinese, a German lady dining alone and some English trying to blend in with the walls. Three Ages of Sheep interestingly demonstrated the difference in flavour from young to old, the winner being braised mutton ‘hot pot’ which was tender and casserole comforting. The chefs are smart enough to know that putting Roast Ray Wing on the menu will engage the curious; at the same time they know the taste of the fish is subtle to the point of blandness, so they added in capers and chorizo. Like I said, smart.

We finished with a dreamy, light lemongrass tea-infused panna cotta and a gluten-free brownie, which sacrificed indulgence for good intentions and was none the better for it. Wine was left to the waiter; he listened to what we liked and his judgement proved sound. The atmosphere is a little stiff here (a bon viveur like Wilde would have been a welcome addition) but the quality of the food is a bargain for the price. What’s more, they’re championing homegrown grub, which deserves our support.

Three courses are £28 per person, wine and service extra.

The Cadogan Hotel Restaurant is currently offering two courses and a glass of Great Taste punch for £25 until Saturday 30 June 2012.

The Cadogan Hotel, 75 Sloane Street, London, SW1X; www.cadogan.com; 0800 023 5445

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