The Blurb
During the pandemic, the Brentford Project was, essentially a building site by the river. I visited one time to get one of the best hair revamps of my life from Timothy David in his portable Airstream. I remember thinking at the time that the place had potential, but it was a bit out of my way and I didn’t expect to return.
Four years later, I’m on my way back to Brentford on a joy inducing sunny Sunday afternoon in early March. I don’t know if it’s just that first-day-of-spring feeling, but the riverwalk rivals many of London’s prime waterway spots. The area has, as promised, ramped up its brunch potential. There’s even a Gails, which, divisive as it may be, is a definite the sign that a neighbourhood is officially on the map.
After the walk, we arrive at Sam’s Waterside; a brasserie style restaurant situated over the top of the river as it makes its way down to Kew. The space is bustling, with a modern open kitchen and bar. The customers vary – stylish young families out for a stroll, hungover city girls with Bloody Marys, and city dwellers soaking up the first morsels of sunshine.
The decor feels modern but with a hat-tip to a traditional brasserie with art deco shapes and patterns; there are large plants with indoor trees covered tastefully in fairy lights, giant turquoise pottery, oversized minimalist lighting adorned with mixed autumnal garlands, and marble tables overlooking the waterside. The restaurant aesthetic teams burnt orange with vast white, bright space, with geometrical shaped tiles and crockery. It’s busy but somehow light and breezy at the same time.
The Food & Drink
It’s Sunday, so we arrive late after wrestling with delayed tubes but the team are ready for us as we arrive. They start us off with a flat white (I missed my morning coffee, so very much needed) and some Parmesan Churros to nibble on. These are everything you could expect – indulgent yet delicate with Parmesan shavings adding a light, salty flavour to the dough.
We then move on from our coffee to Bloody Marias – made with Mescal. It’s a new take on the classic Bloody Mary. Skeptical at first, I fall in love almost instantly. The smokiness of the Mescal adds something extra to the spicy tomato; it’s a winning combination.
For mains, I go for the beef roast. The beef is tasty and tender, prepped and cooked beautifully, and though thinly sliced, hadn’t lost any of its moisture. It was teamed with mouth watering cartelised carrots, some cheesy but not over sauced cauliflower cheese and – and I am fussy about roasties – crisped to perfection roast potatoes. Roasts in a restaurant can be hit and miss. As they say, it’s all about timing, and cooking on mass is a jobsworth. This roast was a real contender, with brilliant flavours and nothing over or underdone. It would have been nice to have the option of medium rare, but this is a busy restaurant and just not feasible.
My guest had the crab linguine, a fresh, delicate pasta dish. When I saw it was creamy, I was a bit worried that the cream might overpower the crab, but I needn’t have been. It was a very subtle hint of cream that did nothing but add to the experience, and with a touch of spice. The pasta was so fresh, I could have been in Tuscany.
We then shared the pear and almond tart, which was a warm, caramelised hug of a dessert. The dish had such a good balance of flavours (not at all overwhelming, which I find Bakewell to often be). My Polish guest tells me it tastes a bit like the Babka, which from her, is a massive compliment. It comes with a delectable scoop of clotted cream that goes so well with the buttery, crumbly pastry. I’d highly recommend this one.
A special mention goes to our server, Camia, who (on her 5th shift) kept her cool on the busy floor and was professional and down to earth.
In a Nutshell
Sam’s Waterside gives you a sophisticated setting, with warm and friendly service, seasonal, local produce and delicious dishes. It’s perfect for a weekend jaunt along the river. Thanks Brentford.
The Details
Sam’s Waterside, 3 Kingham Avenue, The Brentford Project, Brentford, TW8 8GB
020 8150 1020
