There’s a buzz about Crisp Road. It’s getting a reputation for being a bit ‘trendy’… an attribute us West Londoners have long shunned due to lack of necessity. Previously, we’ve been happy to circumnavigate ‘trendy’… let the history, architecture and geography of our beautiful area do all the talking. Until now… because if you know anything about New York-style pizza, you’ll have heard of ‘Crisp’, the pizza pop-up drawing hungry hoards to The Chancellor’s Arms in Hammersmith. How have they done it? Well as far as I can tell: insta hype. Don’t get me wrong, the pizza is superb, but sadly, I’m not organised enough to ‘book my dough’ months in advance. If you are… feel free, but if not, then I’ve got good news because…
There’s a brand new evening spot jostling for punters on the now-hip Crisp Road. Sam’s Kitchen, the brunchy café and little sister of nearby Sam’s Riverside is hosting a ‘Smash and Grab Popup’ serving smash burgers every Thursday-Saturday evening.
The Style
Neon signage, leather banquette seating and informal but friendly counter service from the main-man-Sam-himself – this bright and airy daytime spot deftly switches into evening mode as soon as the sun goes down.
Unlike Sam’s other upscale eateries, which lean towards the luxury end of interior design, Sam’s Kitchen shuns all pretension to focus on the quality of the food which is served simply, but elegantly, in recyclable paper packaging.
To Eat
So what is a smash burger? Well, it’s a burger that isn’t shaped into a burger at all. The meat is simply flattened onto a piping hot grill, liberally seasoned and cooked until caramelised. My dad and I opt for a double bacon cheeseburger and a regular cheeseburger. They’re phenomenal but messy, crisp but juicy and if like us, you’re not afraid to get stuck in, you will end up wearing it – but it will be worth it for the overall experience.
For sides, we choose a blue cheese wedge salad, which is generously tossed with walnuts and tangy stilton. The surprisingly spicy fully-loaded fries need no further accompaniment as they come heaped with crispy onion, spicy mayo and a sprinkling of fresh chilli.
The dessert menu comprises a selection of Hackney’s finest ‘Happy Endings’ ice cream sandwiches. There’s rather a fun moment where I have to explain the euphemism to Dad – but as we bite into ‘The East Side Vegan‘, creamy cashew gelato enshrouded in an oaty biscuit, all awkwardness melts away.
To Drink
Wine comes in a choice of three colours, there are lagers, frozen margaritas and a tasty homemade lemonade – all served in recyclable plastic. Props to the staff member who maintains polite composure when Dad asks for a ‘proper glass glass with a stem’.
In a Nutshell…
Really excellent burgers and sides at reasonable prices. The perfect way to round off an evening spent sundowning with friends or family at one of the riverside pubs. I’ll certainly be back – sooner, rather than later.
The Details
Sam’s Kitchen Hammersmith, 17 Crisp Rd, London W6
