Open Mon–Sun, 9am until late
Travelling back to Portobello from Syon Park a couple of sunny Saturdays ago, I marvelled at the myriad choices the lucky denizens of Chiswick have along the very long length of their high street. Sam’s has eschewed such an obvious shop front for the hidden spot that is the wonderfully named Barley Mow Passage, a move that suggests confidence in their food. Opened in 2005 by Sam Harrison, a protégée of Rick Stein, would it cut the mustard?
First impressions boded well – a full, buzzy room on a Tuesday night, albeit one that was a bit dimly lit. Chefs flitted around like white fireflies through the letterbox view of the kitchen at one end. The chattering classes were all in, mostly a middle-aged crowd to whom a hundred quid Tuesday night dinner wouldn’t hurt too much.
The perfect start to what was to prove spot-on service was a swiftly served carafe of tap water and soft butter. Getting the little things right shouldn’t be underestimated and I never understand those places that bring butter straight from the fridge, ready to wreck the bread as you battle to spread it. Our paper menus were good too – three columns, white wine on the left, food in the middle, red on the right. More important than the design was that there were lots of delicious looking things on it. Unfortunately, food envy was to be my starter as my beloved’s seared chicken livers (£8) were beautifully soft and silky whereas my potted oxtail (£8) was tasteless. It’s saviour might have been the accompanying horseradish cream but for the lack of kick but the watercress and caper salad was better.
Things improved with the mains. The cooking of my roast lamb rump (£16.50) was exact, the young meat almost sweet as it slipped down with a pea puree that smacked of fresh springtime. Slow-roasted pork belly (£14.50) is everywhere these days but done right, it’s still a delight, particularly if the crackling is as soft and crunchy as they get it here. A side of spring greens (£3.50) were a lovely vibrant green and muscley with vitamins. After that, flourless chocolate cake (£6.75) was a gluten-free wonder and pistachio panna Cotta (£6.25) was light and lush, with the pistachio the right kind of subtle.
Sending a succession of happy bellies out into the night, Sam’s proves that it’s not always location, location, location. Let the passing custom get drawn to the bright lights of the high street; Sam’s very much feels like it’s a joint for the locals. After all, you’d have to know where it is to go there.
Dinner for two, with service and drinks, £100.
