The Blurb
Take a short walk from the bustle of High Street Kensington and you’ll find relaxation in calm surroundings at Maria G’s, the latest restaurant offering from Robin Gill and Pete Warden. The dynamic duo’s first collaborative project is an Italian eatery inspired by Robin’s time spent working in the south of Italy and his love for a particular fishing village, Marina Del Cantone, on the Amalfi Coast.
Sitting within a new residential development, there’s a (very chic) home-from-home feel; a large open space pouring out into beautifully manicured gardens designed by award-winning garden designer, Andy Sturgeon. The interiors are considered; think lusciously coated leather stools, velvet booths, slick marble tops, wood parquet flooring and floor-to-ceiling windows, brass and gold finishes; an open kitchen and an impressive cocktail-style bar standing proudly in its own room.
We were fortunate enough to sit outside for our dining experience, having visited Maria G’s on one of the warmest summer days in August. As we basked in the sunshine, it felt proper to order the super refreshing ‘Amalfi Spritz’ – Cocchi Americano, lemon sherbet, Fino sherry, orange bitters topped with prossecco. And yes, it was as good – if not better – than it sounds.
The Food
It started with small plates or “Cicchetti” – Venetian-style sharing dishes – which were made up of aged parmesan fries, truffle honey (£6), Nocellara olives (£3.5), saffron, fennel & tomato arancini, parmesan (£4) and, of course, some pillowy herbed focaccia (£4). Hands down the stars of the show were the delectable crisp and moreish parmesan fries smothered in a sticky truffle honey that, frankly, I could have eaten all day, and the delicate yet abundantly flavoursome arancini; saffron and fennel subtly provoking the taste buds with such fine balance. Simply delectable. We followed the Cicchetti with an antipasti course of burrata from La Sovrana, stone fruit, soft herbs, and olive oil (£11). And yes, it was a triumph. Served up with sweet ripe peach to bring out those rich palate-pleasing flavours, it was a sincere taste of Italy and felt (aptly) like summer in a dish.
Secondi and contorni arrived together: Launceston Farm lamb shoulder, smoked aubergine, salsa verde (£30) alongside a plate of perfectly grilled courgettes, dressed in chilli, lemon, and garlic (£6). We’ll get to the lamb, but first, let’s talk about the contorni. Often, it’s the simplest of dishes that make an impact and the grilled courgettes did just that. A satisfying bite finished off with zesty, lively flavour accompanied our main just so.
Lamb is my meat of choice and this dish did not disappoint. The meat was cooked to absolute perfection and melted in the mouth, boasting its effortless quality. The addition of rich smokey aubergine and a fresh salsa verde gave it so much depth, each element complementing one another – I polished it off lovingly with a glass of red wine.
The wine we were recommended was a full-bodied easy drinking 2019 Nero di Troia IGT Murgia Rosso, Botromagno from Puglia, which I plan to purchase.
In a Nutshell
Dining at Maria G’s feels very true to its purpose of relaxed Italian eating. The vibe, the surroundings and the quality of produce is all there. The food menu celebrates so many wonderful parts of Italy and the simple yet rich art of Italian cooking. The tone is set when you arrive at Maria G’s, and the waiting team are as charming, relaxed, and confident as the restaurant itself.
The Details
To book, visit www.mariags.co.uk
Maria Gs, Coe House, 2 – 4 Warwick Lane, Kensington, W14 8FN
