Open 9.30am–11pm daily
To Queen’s Park, a new neighbourhood for me (and WLL reviews) and on a sunny Thursday evening, one which is buzzy with expectation of the weekend to come. Like many of the boozers we passed, Hugo’s had the doors thrown wide open as we approached; tables and chairs appearing to have trickled out of the restaurant into the summery air, fully loaded with drinkers in shades.
The restaurant is tucked away down a cobbled mews street that was once full of industry but is now full of yoga and Pilates studios. Having done away with the previous ruby walls in favour of a light green, the room that was once the stables is now light and spacious, bare almost, with a small bar at one end and a small stage at the other. It turns out that entertainment is free. On the night we went, two acts strummed away as we ate, managing the neat trick of not becoming intrusive to conversation.
The menu is mostly of the ‘give the people what they want’ variety, with staples like burgers and bangers and mash but the more interesting stuff was on the blackboard. We had mixed experiences with the starters. Calamari (£8.50) was an insult for the price; like KFC squid with mayonnaise that tasted of nothing. We were forced to request some lemon wedges in an attempt to inject some flavour. Conversely, the fish stew (£7.50) was a total bargain – immensely satisfying, hearty and packed with just the right kind of salty and garlicky fish. An enormous, succulent prawn sat on top; the lack of a finger bowl in which to cleanse fish-smelling digits was a bit forgetful.
Mains were better. I ordered grilled king-fish steak with stir-fried veg and corriander salsa (£12.80) as I’d clocked it on the plate of the lady at the table next to ours. It arrived resplendent with grill stripes and tasted satisfyingly of a barbeque flavour that worked well with the thinly-sliced, zingy, gingery, crunchy, Asian-style vegetables that it rested on. Duck leg confit (£13.80) was crispy and fatty in all the right ways, complimented by silky dauphinoise spuds. Plain and simple crème brulee (£5.50) was last up and it did all the things it was supposed to. Warm and crunchy on top; soft, comforting and custardy underneath. Lovely. Though the wine list is uninspiring, Hugo’s has an enjoyable neighbourhood vibe. With a few tweak it should provide a decent enough excuse to go if you don’t live in Queen’s Park already.
