Nestled in a side street off Brompton Road, Knightsbridge is a deceptively large branch of the popular London steakhouse. The Hawksmoor Empire, dreamt up in 2005 by childhood pals Will Beckett and Hugh Gott, came about when the pair embarked upon a journey that would lead them to the perfect steak. Their impassioned search, which took them to all four corners of the globe, eventually led them back to home turf when they realised that the ‘best tasting beef was from traditional British breeds lovingly reared the old-fashioned way.’
The ethos behind the restaurant, was to source ‘the very best – from dry-aged beef to sustainable seafood and small farm produce… simply cooked’ often over real charcoal. And it’s an ethos that has served them well; Hawksmoor now has branches in London, Manchester, Liverpool, Edinburgh, Dublin, New York and Chicago.
We visit on a Friday afternoon for lunch in mid April- the hostess installs in a secluded booth and our charming waiter, Marcin, brings us some menus.
Style
The underground Knightsbridge restaurant is enormous. There’s an industrial art deco vibe that permeates the entire space, there are evocative teal and blood-red banquettes – that echo the ‘surf and turf’ theme of the menu. Stained glass arches give the open kitchen an ecclesiastic feel and charred black wooden panelling provides some welcome texture and is reminiscent of a traditional Kent black barn.
To Eat
We begin with what we presume will be a modest Caesar Salad with Anchovies – it isn’t. It’s vast – whole foot-long leaves of romaine are positively buried under an inch of parmesan. It’s delicious and surprisingly… not too heavy. We also share a portion of Pork Ribs with a zingy Asian slaw. The meat slips gently off the bone and the tartness of the slaw is the perfect pairing.
For the main course, I try the Short Rib in an unctuous peppercorn sauce with beef dripping fries. The meat melts in the mouth and the fries are simply heavenly when bathed in the delisious sauce. My guest ordered a ribeye with béarnaise cooked medium/rare. She was delighted with the cook on the beef, but sadly, the quantity defeats her. Sides of garlic mushrooms and spinach gently cooked in lemon and garlic provide a welcome hit of chlorophyll but, was by no means essential because….
We crawl towards the dessert course feeling equal parts satisfied and ready for a nap. We agree to take a look at the menu and upon spotting ‘House made Rolos’, valiantly rally. We order a small portion to share and opt for a quenelle of the rhubarb sorbet, just to taste it. The sorbet is subtle and not too sweet, as rhubarby desserts are often wont to be and the Rolos are divine! Delicate chocolate surrounds an oozing salted caramel centre that bursts in your mouth.
The Crowd
It’s busy for a weekday in the Easter Holidays and the crowd are a mixed bunch. There’s a father having lunch with his teenage son, a slightly rowdy gang of hedge funders who’ve got that ‘Friday feeling’ and a couple of family tables whom I presume are tourists taking a break from the sightseeing crowds.
In a Nutshell
The service was faultless and the food, excellent. This was my first time dining at a Hawksmoor, I thought I knew what to expect… excellent steak a selection of hearty sides, but it is so much more than that. It’s a traditional British restaurant that prizes the quality and provenance of its ingredients above all else.
Often when friends visit from abroad, they’ll ask where they can find quintessentially British fare that showcases the best produce – previously, I’d have always recommended St John, but next time they ask, I’ll be sure to suggest Hawksmoor.
3 Yeomans Row, London, SW3 2AL
