What They Say
‘An Italian tapas restaurant that combines the most popular dishes from all regions of Italy, presented in a design setting that has been inspired by the glorious gardens of Lake Como. As the sister restaurant Zuaya London, Como Garden is delivered in tapas style, where the menu is designed to cater to around three dishes per person in order to have a broader culinary experience. The team’s love for pasta has definitely been included in this menu, where all pastas are hand-made every day by our Italian pasta chef.’
The Style
Peeling away from the frenetic churn of Kensington High Street in mid-December, I found myself, almost without warning, stepping into a sequestered patch of Renaissance Italy – albeit one with a W8 postcode.
Once inside, an olive tree blooms out from the centre of the room (a decision I will defend at length), its branches hanging low enough that, to reach our seat, we had to duck beneath them, making the immersion feel all the more authentic. Terracotta herb pots trace the trellised walls, softened by lush, leafy foliage beneath; marble-topped tables occupy the spaces where you’d expect to find classical sculpture; the lighting is low; the music, just at the right level; and there’s a distinct sense that people are lingering long after they had planned to.
The Drink
In a spirited attempt to commit fully to the Italianate escapism, my dinner companion and I swiftly beckoned over two antithetically Christmas cocktails: a Bianco Tropicale (coconut cream, lychee juice, lime juice, passion fruit syrup) and a Como Fizz (gin, basil, lemon, sugar). I’ve encountered enough gin, lemon and basil permutations in my time to recognise a good one. All I’ll say is that, although my wholehearted intention was to sample the menu more fully, I stuck to those all night and regretted nothing.
The Food
Unaware prior to arrival that the concept leans towards Italian tapas – and with no particular guidance from the waiting staff – we still managed to navigate the menu successfully enough.
Our antipasti arrived in the form of a bruschetta and a Parmesan arancini (perhaps more aptly termed arancino, arriving in the singular). This beautifully flavoured, crisp-fried prism gave way to a molten, indulgent centre, slipping down the gullet with only the minor complaint that it could’ve been a tad hotter. Its lighter counterpart, the bruschetta, was perfectly executed in a dish where there’s little room to hide: the bread was crisped at the edges yet soft at the core; tomatoes fresh, ripe and well-seasoned; a consistent garlic punch throughout.
For my main course, it was a toss-up between the fresh mafaldine with veal ragù, the paccheri alla carbonara and the beef ragù lasagne. On the basis of our waiter’s succinct summaries of each – hearty, traditional and saucy, respectively – I went with the lasagne. While I wouldn’t quite describe it as saucy (and once again wished it had arrived hotter), the flavour was nonetheless excellent: a lighter, more tomato-rich take of this Italian classic.
My dinner companion, however, made the standout choice with the grilled octopus – easily the star of the table. Amongst the largest and freshest I’ve eaten in London, this chunky triskelion’s charred, caramelised tentacles delivered a pleasing crispness, while a surprising back-of-the-throat kick crept in from the chilli.
As accompaniments, we ordered the roast potatoes – more skin-on wedges, but welcome all the same, particularly given how often they underperform in almost every restaurant besides this one. The Sicilian orange and walnut salad was a palette-cleansing triumph – one I’m still toying with recreating at home, or whether it tastes best within a verdant Lombardian setting.
Despite being comfortably full by this stage, we pressed on to pudding. First came the CG signature lemon meringue torta – think cake, not tart – which was light, moist and fresh, with a generous layer of well-balanced buttercream. We also felt compelled to try the tiramisu. Expecting something resembling my lasagne in its composition, the Como Garden tiramisu instead arrives delicately with a single row of well-soaked savoiardi under handpiped cream and topped with coffee beans.
In a Nutshell
High-quality ingredients take centre stage, showcased in their purest, simplest form as part of a convivial, tapas-inspired dining experience that encourages (though you may not want to) sharing.
The Details
Como Garden, 37-45 Kensington High St, London W8 5ED
