Carluccio's

Carluccio’s

Open Mon–Fri 7.30am–11.30pm; Sat 9am–11.30pm; Sun 9am–10.30pm

Being a huge supporter of local restaurants, there aren’t many chains that I would visit by choice but I must admit Carluccio’s has always been the exception. Its laidback approach to seasonal Italian food has always held a charm of sorts – as have its prices.

Being a local girl I have spent many a cold evening waiting for taxis outside the South Kensington branch, staring in with envy at the restaurant filled to the rafters with diners and yet until now I had never actually dined there; too easily distracted by the independents around.

On my arrival the restaurant was full, as usual. The friendly manager soon found me a table and realising I was waiting alone brought me a newspaper and suggested I try an appertivo while I waited. I ordered a glass of prosecco (£4.95)… Well I wanted the authentic Italian experience and all that jazz.

In many restaurants dining alone can be a daunting experience but there were a huge number of lone diners on my visit.

Once my friend Ceyda arrived we ordered a bottle of the house red; an easy drinking Sicilian variety that proved soft, subtle and good value (£13.95).

For starters we shared the homemade tuna fishcake (£5.25). The enormous, hearty slab of tuna and capers was deliciously crispy and moist but the mayonnaise that accompanied it lacked depth.

We also had the goat’s cheese salad (£7.75) with roasted red peppers and pine nuts. It was also a generous portion with a good portion of rich and creamy cheese hidden among the lightly oiled leaves.

For my main I took the waitress’s advice and ordered the house specialty, penne giardinier (£8.25). The restaurant’s bestselling dish combines Pugliese penne pasta, with courgette, chilli and deep-fried spinach balls. Despite being its signature recipe, the the pasta was al-dente to the point of almost raw in the centre and dry and crispy on the ends (a sign of having sat around perhaps?). The spinach balls however were addictive, chewy with a satisfyingly moist centre, but the dish as a whole lacked impact so I spent my evening ogling my friend’s spinach and ricotta ravioli. Served with a rich, warm salty butter sauce and fresh sage, it was perfectly cooked, understated but full of flavour.

Ceyda could not wait to attack the desert list and did not even need to look at it. ‘The lemon tart is amazing; the best dessert in the world,’ she proclaimed with a huge grin which soon faded on the realisation that it had sold out. Distraught she frantically perused the menu seeking out an alternative. The lady opposite us, dining alone had an unusual looking desert. When we queried what it was she looked disappointed, ‘Some lemony cheese thing. I always order the lemon tart but they fobbed me off with this.’ In the end we settled for the chocolate bread and butter pudding with vanilla cream (£3.95), a tiramisu (£3.95) and an Amaretto on the rocks. Both deserts were good, the chocolate bread and butter pudding was rich and chewy – but apparently not a patch on the infamous lemon tart. It seems a return visit is in order.

Meal for two, including wine and service, around £60.

Carluccio’s, 1 Old Brompton Road, London, SW7; www.carluccios.com; 020 7581 8101

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