What They Say
Born in Korea and raised in Aspen, Colorado, Akira Back brings a sense of adventure and boundless creativity to his culinary creations in global destinations. Blending Japanese and Korean cuisine in mouthwateringly creative dishes, this is the first UK venture of the internationally acclaimed award-winning chef.
The Style
The first impression is impactful. After descending a sculpted spiral staircase, guests are hit with a darkly thespian vision of smoked glass, spider vein marble and mint stone.
The dimly lit bar at the far end of the restaurant, sparkling with the bottles of curated sakes and Japanese whiskeys, sets a bacchanalian tone. The waitresses, clad in toga-style black gowns, swish across the space with focused elegance.
There are eye-popping elements to the interiors, from the twisting rib-like wooden art installation that skirts the vaulted metal ceiling, to the jurassic-sized pot plants. Still, there is something confidently understated about the cosy cereal-toned dining booths and tables topped with slate grey half-crescent plates.
The Food
The Michelin-starred chef Akira Back is known for his boldly experimental take on Japanese cuisine, and his latest Mayfair outpost, flecked with global flavours and homespun touches, is no exception.
My first course – a selection of sharing plates from the ‘cold’ section of the menu – set the bar high. The tuna pizza – a crispy base topped with raw fish dolloped with umami aioli and drizzled with truffle oil – was a moreish collision of Italian and Japanese flavours, the contrasting earthiness of the truffle only enhancing the delicateness of the tuna. The removal of each slice gradually revealed the ceramic artwork of Akira’s mother, who designed the crockery – a lovely little touch.
Next, I tucked into the yellowtail jalapeno. As a sashimi purist, I was uncertain about trying it, but I was pleasantly surprised that the flavours of fire and sea harmoniously intermingled rather than battling against each other; the sweet heat from the jalapenos and tomato salsa offset the fatty saltiness of the prime yellowtail.
The dynamite crab hot plate entree – priced at £78 – does not come cheap but it is a showstopper, the luscious slakes of meat – served in gargantuan leg shells – pop with pepper spice, and are topped with pickled shimeji mushrooms that crackle with a subtle nutty flavour.
While the main menu has crowd-pleasers for meat lovers, such as Wagyu strip loin and beef ribeye with wasabi butter, the jidori chicken and chestnut puree is a perfectly balanced dish, the mild and moist meat enhanced rather than overpowered by the drizzle of sticky teriyaki.
Upon the sommelier’s recommendation, I paired it with a zippy Chinese cabernet sauvignon fizzing with black fruits and a vanilla flavour called Chateau Changyu Moser. I wasn’t aware that China had a wine industry, but apparently, it has a thriving viticulture region in Ningxia, located in the north-central region of the country.
The desserts are simple, delicious and perfectly executed. I devoured my oozing chocolate fondant, washed down with a yuzu sake liqueur that tasted more intense and less artificially sugary than limoncello.
In a Nutshell
Dazzling, delicious and slightly daring, Akira Back is a stellar choice for a special outing. Guests who are willing to strike outside of their comfort zone of standard sushi rolls and try some of the more outlandish plates will be rewarded with a palate-tingling array of fusion flavours from one of the world’s most accomplished chefs.
The Details
22 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JP
