The Great Bustard, Wiltshire

What they Say

The Great Bustard is a countryside pub and restaurant with rooms, in Great Durnford, Wiltshire. It’s an hour and 45-minute drive from West London and is extremely well situated for visiting Stonehenge and the surrounding countryside.

Set in a former country pub, it once more takes its place at the cornerstone of the community, with a brand new chapter and under new ownership. This time, the proprietors are bringing their culinary and viticultural influence to elevate the fare, whilst maintaining its original standing at the heart of the village.

The Great Bustard is a place that welcomes locals and tourists alike to ‘eat, drink, sleep and retreat.’

Style

The Great Bustard remains faithful to its original purpose. Despite the recent revamp, the former bar has been preserved, and on the evening we visit, it is buzzing with locals and visitors enjoying an early evening pint in the spring sun.

At the back of the building, a newer restaurant space has been added. There are slate floors, a stylish timber ceiling and glass doors that open onto a courtyard where Mediterranean elements – olive trees, rustic furniture and oversized pots – create a suitable atmosphere for the popular pizza menu that runs all week.

Sleep

With ten bedrooms, the newly finished accommodations are split between the main building and several purpose-built barn-style outbuildings. Here, the rustic vibe continues.

The rooms are elegantly finished in a chic countryside style. Soft furnishings include rattan, sisal and raw linens. The furniture seamlessly blends contemporary and antique styles to good effect. The bathrooms are brand new and are, therefore, spotlessly clean. Here you will find deliciously scented products from the Bustard’s own Durnford range, which use the best natural scents and ingredients. The bedrooms also feature fully electric blackout blinds: a godsend if you’re travelling with a restless child, but of course, no match for the little early riser who finds herself in unfamiliar environs the next morning.

To Drink

I begin with a martini. If you’ve read any of my previous pieces, you might notice a theme emerging. This particular one is billed as an ‘appletini’, which I must admit raises some concern for me, a purist. It is actually rather delicious and features a pickled crab apple from the grounds and eau de vie. The wine list offers something for everyone. I’m delighted and honoured to try the first batch of Ortada red from the family’s estate in Tuscany. It’s sweet, earthy and pairs wonderfully with my main course.

To Eat

With head chef Jordan Taylor at the helm, the menu here spotlights local, seasonal produce. The style is ‘Elevated, but not fussy’ and the menu prides itself on its versatility, offering everything from humble fish and chips to delicate red mullet escabeche.

We begin with a custom-made marinara pizza for our daughter, Clara. She’s never had her own pizza before, so she is, as you’d expect, in heaven. Meanwhile, we start with some homemade bread; a Parkerhouse-inspired loaf, infused with local ale and sprinkled with toasted buckwheat. It’s a harbinger of things to come, and it’s here that we realise, we’re in for something truly special.

Next up is a celeriac soup in the form of a creamy amuse-bouche, topped with caramel-pickled celeriac. For a starter, my husband orders a Mediterranean tomato tartlet, a feast for the eyes, and despite the early season, the tomatoes are full of flavour. I start with a local smoked Chalkstream Trout, served with a trio of fluffy blinis and a herby creme fraîche.

For the main course, I choose the thirty-day-aged Lion Hill steak served with frites and a creamy peppercorn sauce. My husband goes for the Day Boat Fish, an unbelievably fresh piece of hake that comes served with buttery new potatoes and spring greens.

By dessert, our daughter, who’s declined several invitations to go to bed, is falling asleep at the table. So we order a selection of petit fours to enjoy in our room. A smorgasbord of delight in miniature: fudge, apple tartlet and mini chocolate mousse! What I don’t finish the night before, I enjoy with my (very early) morning coffee.

Later on at breakfast, I go for the Buttermilk pancakes, which are perfectly pillowy and come served beneath a rhubarb compote and pistachio-topped ricotta. The Full English too is superbly executed, and includes zero filler, with black pudding, perfectly poached eggs, sausage, hash brown and toasted sourdough.

The Treatments

After breakfast, I’m lucky enough to experience a full body massage in the Bustard’s secluded Osprey treatment room. We begin with a cleansing salt foot bath whilst talking through my recent health and problem areas. I always hold tension in my shoulders, so I’m keen to put the focus there. The practitioner uses a heady combination of extra-firm pressure and Durnford’s bespoke products, which harness the power of natural herbs and botanicals to ease away knots and tension. What a wonderful way to kick off the morning. I leave feeling superbly energised and smelling delicious.

The Details

The drink and food menus are available here: www.thegreatbustard.uk

If you’re looking to sleep over, one night at The Great Bustard starts at £225.