Le Metro
I was expecting a French menu, but the food at Le Metro is decidedly British

Le Metro Bar & Bistro

Open Mon–Sat 7.30am–10.30pm

The style:

Tucked away underneath The Levin Hotel in the heart of Knightsbridge, Le Metro is a discreet and relaxed place. Set up to cater for everyone’s requirements; there are large tables with banquettes, stools lined up at the bar and small tables with pairs of upholstered armchairs. We sat in a cosy nook with our backs to the extensive wine racks (we later discovered the owner has his own vineyard).

The crowd:

Le Metro has created a modest ‘grazing menu’ of classic dishes that can be enjoyed all day, therefore attracting an all-day crowd; one diner exclaimed, ‘You’re still here?’ to the waiter as he walked by – she’d seen him earlier at lunch. The Harrods-adjacent location attracts a few big spenders; we noticed a table near us of two Asian couples – one girl was uncasing her new purchase of outrageous diamante stiletto Jimmy Choos while her friend showed off her new Mulberry across the table.

The drinks:

Wine is the choice here: we went for one of the ‘wines of the week’, a clean and refreshing 2010 Cuatro Rayas Verdejo (£24).

The Food:

We started with something from the more sophisticated end of the menu; Dad had light delicate fingers of sole goujons (£5) and I opted for my fave – crispy squid, which was everything it should be (the Szechwan peppercorns were a particularly interesting touch with their little bursts of heat). However, disappointingly and rather inexplicably, the squid came with a dish of mustard instead of the garlic aioli promised.

From the name, I was expecting a French menu, but the food at Le Metro is decidedly British, including the classic fish and chips, sausages and mash and shepherd’s pie. I had grilled aubergine and feta salad (£12), which came mixed in with couscous and a perfectly balanced lime and mint dressing. There were also a lot of cold chick peas, which I think the dish could have done without. Dad’s grilled salmon (£14) was generously portioned and came on a bed of just-right French beans and a dollop of basil pesto.

We finished the meal with a fresh, zesty lemon tart and absolutely delicious gingerbread with a perfectly sharp yet sugary rhubarb compote.

Le Metro Bar & Bistro, The Levin, 28 Basil Street, London, SW3; thelevinhotel.co.uk/dining.html; 020 7589 6286

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