The Credentials:
The four-star Swan Hotel in Lavenham is an enchanting privately-owned 15th century building with a wealth of character and plentiful oak beams. In 2013 it received the Large Hotel of the Year Award from Visit England. The Swan Hotel provides a charming, relaxing short break in an historically and architecturally fascinating village that is only a two-hour drive from west London.
Dine:
The Swan has a great local reputation for its range of English afternoon teas (booking is advised). You might settle for delicious scones and finger sandwiches, but if venison with cranberry jelly, caviar and smoked salmon (and more besides) takes your fancy then opt for the Emperor Tea or anything in-between. If tea is not your tipple then Frerejean Frères Champagne is a tempting alternative.
The impressive two AA Rosette restaurant is located within a lofty medieval banquet hall complete with minstrels’ gallery. This is a stunning setting for special celebrations. We arrived during a wedding reception to the exciting and unexpected sound of live opera singers, who had been masquerading as waiters before surprising guests by bursting into song.
The Gallery Restaurant offers a good range of contemporary cuisine, much of which is locally sourced. The diverse and interesting wine list is well presented by a knowledgeable and helpful sommelier. After delicious pre-dinner canapés, we selected three courses from an imaginative and interesting menu. My friend’s favourite starter was the intensely-flavoured and creamy pea and Parmesan pana cotta with a pea veloutte and Parmesan tuile. For a main course, I enjoyed the salty and perfectly cooked pan-fried cod with saffron and chorizo rice, mussels, smoked trout and tempura of king prawn. The desserts were creative and amusing. We enjoyed the cleverly constructed plate of ham (roasted watermelon), peas (creamy mint balls), chips (roast pineapple) and egg (melon puree yolk and coconut white) but decided that the clever construction and presentation of this dish superseded some of its flavours.
Sleep:
We wound and ducked our way beneath dark, low beams and were delighted to catch sight of hidden courtyards in bloom when we peeped through various windows. Our room, when we found it, was nestled high in the eaves, with superb vaulted, timbered ceilings framing our regal and comfortable beds. I wondered if I should have brought a lover for a touch of medieval role-play and jousting, rather than come with my friend! The thought passed when we realised the room has small windows and in mid summer could get rather stuffy. The bedroom was well decorated, comfortable and atmospheric and the bathroom (with the expected cotton robes and toiletries) was surprisingly modern in comparison.
Who Goes There?
The Swan attracts the genteel for afternoon teas, couples for quiet and romantic getaways and locals enjoying a celebratory meal. The Airman’s Bar has interesting World War II memorabilia on its walls and the signatures of Air Force personnel (mostly US) who were stationed at Lavenham Airfield.
Out & About:
Lavenham became a prosperous town in medieval times, thanks to the woolen cloth industry. It has over 350 listed buildings and is a great place for looking at whole streets of wonky houses of many shades and sizes. Step into the Guildhall in the Market Place for the most impressive building (after the parish church) and discover the Harry Potter film link. At weekends, guided walks around Lavenham are available (contact the Tourist Information Centre). There are plenty of quirky clothes and gift shops, galleries, antique shops and tea rooms. The Elizabethan mansions of Kentwell Hall and Melford Hall are only about four miles away at Long Melford and also well worth a visit.
The Worst Thing:
It is a small moan really, but I was disappointed to find a modern bath rather than a roll-top. It broke my step-back-in-time fantasy.
The Best Thing:
The Swan is atmospheric and relaxing and the standard of food and service was generally high.
