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The Feversham Arms Hotel and Verbena Spa

Patrice Baldwin visits the multi-award winning Feversham Arms at Helmsley; ‘a luxury hideaway, designed to help guests retreat, relax and indulge’

The Credentials:

After an easy journey from London, the scenery dramatically changed to sandstone outcrops before we found ourselves in the charming, honey stoned market town of Helmsley.

The multi-award winning Feversham Arms Hotel and Verbena Spa is a combination of buildings; poolside apartments, first floor spa suites and traditional rooms/suites in the main building. This eclectic mix surrounds an inviting centerpiece courtyard, with an attractive outdoor heated pool, hot tub and semi-private seating areas.

The Verbena Spa runs along one side of the courtyard, and opens onto the pool area. It offers individual spa treatments from manicures to full day spa packages. It is well known for its heat experience, which comprises a stylish sauna, aromatherapy room, salt inhalation room, monsoon shower, ice cave and foot spa. We enjoyed the heat experience but the hot tub was out of action for part of our stay. Book treatments early as the spa gets fully booked.

The Feversham Arms rightly prides itself on offering laid back luxury without stuffiness. We were warmly welcomed and soon sinking into plush armchairs and sofas in various tasteful snug, bar, library and lounge areas, all with eye catching artwork.

Dine:

The contemporary, elegant 3 AA Rosette Restaurant offers the finest, locally farmed food, imaginatively created and beautifully presented. We opted for the five course tasting menu (£55pp) with recommended wines for each course (£32.50pp). The menu was willingly and cleverly adapted for us, in response to a dietary request.

The Jersey Royal espuma, summer truffle was a sensory delight; the smooth, light foam contrasting with the delicate cubes of potato, perfectly complemented by a glass of South African 2011 Sauvignon Blanc Buitenverwachting. “Melt in the mouth” foie gras terrine, with sharp gooseberries and sour dough toast followed. This was my friend’s favourite course and was well matched with a 2010, French Clos Dady Sauternes. My favourite was tender breast of Goosnargh duck, cooked to perfection and served with horseradish, cherry and beetroot, accompanied by a rich, Portuguese Quinto Do Crasto Reserva, 2010. The meal was a culinary tour de force with fine wines perfectly complementing each course, but making it challenging to walk in a straight line when we left!

Sleep:

The hotel boasts 33 individually designed bedrooms and suites. Our suite was classically furnished, with direct access to the pool.  We had a twin room with adjoining shower room, an elegant yet homely living room with open fireplace, (wonderful for a log fire on a winter’s evening) and a stylish main bathroom with deep rolltop bath and separate shower (plus everything needed for a candlelit bath, with Anne Sémonin toiletries). There was also a small bedroom.

Who Goes There?

This hotel is a good base for the active or more sedentary guest, close to great walks but also good for simply relaxing in. It was a sunny Saturday afternoon when we arrived and families with young children were enjoying the pool, alongside other residents of various ages. Children are welcome but a stay here is more likely to be an adult affair, with guests drawn to the award winning restaurant, pleasant surroundings and natural beauty of the area. The restaurant is somewhere to maybe celebrate a special occasion.

The valet parked my dusty Fiesta Zetec. I found it later, nestled amidst sports cars and shiny 4x4s. Oh well, we all swam in the same pool, ate from the same menu and a slower drive gave us more time to appreciate the landscape!

Out & About:

For walkers, this area is the start of the Cleveland Way and the Ebor Way. It is also a good area for history lovers. Opposite the hotel is the impressive 12th century church, with wonderful wall murals. The towering Helmsley Castle ruins are a few minutes walk away, adjoining five acres of Victorian Walled Gardens (restored in 1994). Nearby, Byland Abbey is a good example of Gothic architecture and the atmospheric, peaceful Rievaulx Abbey ruins are also worth a visit.

The hotel is a short walk from the market square, with its ancient cross, tempting book and tea shops, outstanding delicatessens, galleries and various boutique shops. Friday is market day, with local farm produce in abundance. Helmsley Arts Centre is just off the market square, where we happily chanced upon an outdoor rehearsal by a brass band. This venue has theatre and concerts throughout the year, with a folk weekend in September.

The nearby International Centre for Birds of Prey at Duncombe Park (opened 2013), has the largest collection of birds of prey in northern England, including eagles, vultures, hawks, falcons, owls and more. There are three flying demonstrations a day, so it’s a good place to take children but do a headcount before you leave!

Drive across heather rich North York moors and beware the unpredictable sheep! We wended our way to delightful Whitby harbour, for fish and chips, Goths and tea shops, before rounding the day off with a steep walk down to picturesque Robin Hood Bay.

The Worst Thing:

The lovely artwork on the walls is still for sale at the Feversham Arms and not on my own walls at home.

The Best Thing:

The dining experience struck the right balance with delicious, aesthetically pleasing dishes, good wines and attentive, well informed staff.

The Details:

‘Sleep. Stay and Spa’ package at £190 per room, per night. Verbena Spa: info@verbenaspa.com; 014 3977 2930

Try the ‘Food Lovers Break’. Rates start from £135 per person per night or check out the ‘Muddy Boots’ package for walkers, starting from £105 a night. All packages available Sunday to Thursday, subject to availability.

Feversham Arms Hotel & Verbena Spa, Helmsley, North Yorkshire, YO62 5AG; www.fevershamarmshotel.cominfo@fevershamarmshotel.com; 014 3977 0766