What They Say
Tucked away in the storybook village of Alfriston, where the rolling South Downs meet the winding Cuckmere River, you’ll find a retreat that feels like stepping into a postcard, with great food, dreamy beds, and plenty of surprises along the way.
The Hotel
Formerly named ‘Deans Place’, The Alfriston hotel is the fourth addition to the Signet Collection’s coterie of luxury boutique hotels, which includes The Mitre in Hampton Court, The Barnsdale in Rutland and The Retreat in Elcot Park.
This latest acquisition is by no means the first reinvention the 14th-century Grade II listed building has undergone over the years: part mediaeval manor, part country house hotel, part Victorian, part Edwardian, and (sadly) part 1960s with an extension stitched on at the rear – The Alfriston adeptly leans into this patchwork history, rather than attempts to smooth it out. This is largely thanks to a recent multi-million-pound refurbishment, during which interior designer Georgie Wykeham breathed new life into the 38-bedroom estate, dressing it in a bold, characterful palette with playful florals, stripes and textiles from the likes of Colefax and Fowler and GP & J Baker.
The Style
Despite some inevitable design overlaps with the Signet Collection’s other properties, The Alfriston, by and large, rejects the polished sameness you might find at global chains, making a marked deviation to honour its local heritage and, in doing so, conjures up a sense of place that feels impossible to transplant without losing something essential to its identity.
With Charleston – the Bloomsbury group’s countryside retreat – an 11-minute drive away, a deliberate arts and crafts sensibility is pulled into its design, the best examples of this being the hand-painted floral detailing on the walls of The Orangery dining space, the eclectic colour schemes and bedrooms named after the artistic movement’s members.
It’s abundantly clear from the minute you arrive that The Alfriston knows where its greatest assets lie: the uninterrupted views of the South Downs on its back doorstep, and its picturesque frontage overlooking the front lawn. This explains why most dining and relaxation spots are shrewdly positioned, with a front-row seat to one or the other.
The Service
Flawless. The three big ticks from me were: 1) a crisp glass of Riesling poured promptly on arrival by receptionist Tallulah, who greeted us with the calm and affable demeanour that immediately puts you at ease; 2) the general manager Tomas regaling us with a brief overview of the building’s history en route to our room, along with recommended sights and walks in the area; 3) the excellent waiting staff, who remained attentive yet unobtrusive, knowing the menu fluently enough to make confident recommendations throughout our stay.
Dine
We arrived in time for lunch in the walled garden. It begins brilliantly with two excellent cocktails recommended by our waiter: a French 75 and a Negroni – showcasing wines and gins from the neighbouring Rathfinny Estate. Soon after came the grilled flatbread (with roasted red onion, feta and garlic butter), smoked salmon with rye bread, pink peppercorn baby calamari and a rocket and Parmesan salad. All beautifully prepared, executed and presented, we tucked in while watching fellow guests playing croquet, plucking finger sandwiches from three-tiered etagères and children trying their luck on the large wooden Jenga set. It all felt very P.G. Wodehouse – idyllic, charming and quintessentially English.
Supper that evening was another triumph for the hotel’s all-day brasserie. Using the glorious weather to justify another summer cocktail, I opted for the Provence Rosé Spritz (made with rosé, Lillet Rosé, hibiscus syrup and soda water for something floral, refreshing and altogether delightful). My dining companion chose to sample something from the extensive wine selection. A long-time fan of the iconic Lebanese winery Château Musar, he was impressed to discover a discerning suggestion from the same region in the form of a Bordeaux-style red blend from Château Oumsiyat, which might just be a new favourite.
On the food front, the menu continued to delight and surprise us. The wild garlic and white onion soup, I’ve decided, is the most refreshing and fantastically seasonal springtime starter – thankfully, it came with a rosemary focaccia so we could soak up every last droplet. Equally delicious were the scallops, served on a cauliflower cream with pancetta and a sherry vinegar caramel.
To taste something from land and sea, our main courses comprised a salmon fillet with an olive tapenade and roast aubergine purée alongside the slow-cooked lamb shoulder, served with potatoes, root vegetables and a hearty rosemary sauce. Both dishes were exceptional, exceeding already high expectations – and gone in minutes.
For pudding, it had to be the vanilla cheesecake with a tart hedgerow compote and intensely fruity (though, crucially, not too sweet!) blackcurrant sorbet. Across from me was the warm chocolate and salted caramel fondant with clotted cream ice cream, which I dipped my spoon into more than once.
As we weren’t alone in the bar, licking our plates clean would have felt rude. But despite that, we noticed a special kind of atmosphere takes over in this [dog-friendly] dining area: the couple next to us were playing Scrabble whilst their pooch made friends with ours under the table; just beyond that, a heated game of rummy; and over in the corner, chess. It wasn’t long into our own board game that we were all offered a complimentary glass of Madeira (part of the hotel’s ‘Nightcap & Natter’ experience).
The following morning, breakfast was served in The Orangery, buffet-style. Laid out were mini pastries, fruit, cold meats, cheeses and smashed avocado on toast, whilst the à la carte menu offered the usual classics. The buffet offerings didn’t quite live up to our dining evening experience, but our à la carte dishes were faultless.
Sleep
Named after English actor Sir Dirk Bogarde (who apparently summered in Alfriston as a child), our corner room soaked in a double helping of magnificent views over the South Downs.
Homemade madeleines were there waiting for us, along with bottled water and all the usual tea and coffee facilities – but no minifridge for fresh milk or other in-room refreshments beyond that. There is, however, a communal snack cupboard by reception, which is a thoughtful touch, though it would have been nice to see a more considered selection of local produce, particularly given the use of higher-end touches elsewhere – like the bathrooms being stocked with products from modern British heritage brand Bramley rather than generic miniatures.
Once bedtime rolled around, we felt that easy sink into the bed linen, which meant drifting off wasn’t difficult. Although we were disturbed on more than one occasion by guests across the corridor, which we attributed to the soundproofing in the 1960s wing not being as effective as in the older parts of the hotel. (Note to self for next time – and there will be a next time!)
The Spa
A much-welcomed addition to this charming boutique hotel, the Signet Spa has three treatment rooms, a sauna, steam room, relaxation room and a heated outdoor pool. The hotel manager also informed us of his imminent plans to install two hot tubs at the garden’s outer boundary, practically on the bank of the Cuckmere River, which I imagine will be very well received.
Out & About
Without question, the jewel in this hotel’s crown is its location. Separated from the sprawling South Downs by a mere kissing gate, the chocolate-box village of Alfriston lies upstream of the Cuckmere River – and is rich with discoveries: the Much Ado bookshop; St Andrew’s Church (aptly known as the ‘Cathedral of the Downs’); and the National Trust’s first property, the Clergy House. In the opposite direction, the South Downs Way leads you through acres of heritage countryside all the way to the iconic Seven Sisters chalk cliffs.
A short uphill stroll takes you to Rathfinny Wine Estate, while further afield you’ve got Charleston, Glyndebourne and Rudyard Kipling’s family home, Bateman’s.
The Best Thing
Immediate access to some of the most scenic walking in southern England (with a spa and stunning menu to return to).
The Worst Thing
The 1960s wing. Reflecting the architectural shortcomings of its era, there’s a lot to be desired when it comes to soundproofing, with its exterior lacking the charm of the rest of the hotel – a disappointment given it is the prevailing view from the pool (but nothing some climbing plants can’t fix). The garden, too, would benefit from some overdue attention and renewal.
The Details
Room prices vary by season and start from £180 to £365 per night
The Alfriston have also recently announced a summer-long collaboration on their terrace with Rathfinny Wine Estate, a beautiful Sussex vineyard just a short walk from the hotel.
Seaford Rd, Alfriston, East Sussex, BN26 5TW
01323 870248
