The Credentials:
Mark Fuller, owner of London’s Embassy Club and Sanctum Soho Hotel (billed as London’s first rock ‘n’ roll hotel) has opened a second outpost within Hunter-trekking distance of the capital. The pretty, 400-year-old building with exposed wood beams boasts nine rooms, one small treatment room, restaurant, outside wedding licence, heated outdoor pool and hot tub.
Dine:
We arrived in time to enjoy a late lunch in the sheltered walled garden. We chose a Keen cheddar quiche, apple and walnut salad (£7) and a club sandwich (£12.50) – both good, although the waitress struggled with the weighty slab of slate which the sarnie arrived on. We later discovered that the new head chef, David Landor, will soon be updating the rather uninspired menu with the aim of focusing on local produce; the very unlocal Wagyu beef is not going to make the cut. We also spotted a herb garden in its early stages beyond the pavilion marquee which should bode well for future diners.
There were only two other tables of diners in the smart restaurant that evening. However, we were well looked after by new assistant manager, Alex, and Giovanni, the Italian barman. Alex brought me a hand written menu of tempting vegetarian alternatives to the standard menu’s offerings. I chose a rich, creamy mushroom and Madeira sauce pithivier sprinkled with micro salad to start which was beautifully balanced by a light main of asparagus, roast pepper timbale and red cabbage. Lucy followed her Keen cheddar quiche with a perfectly cooked, aged Hereford sirloin steak, turned roast potatoes, veg and Béarnaise sauce. We enjoyed a bottle of smooth Bourgogne Chardonnay Vincent Prunier 2006 (£39) with our meal.
At breakfast, in the conservatory, tea bags arrived instead of our requested fresh mint tea; my omelette was perfectly squidgy, but lacked the spinach I’d ordered, while Lucy’s maple-cured bacon and eggs were tepid. A disappointing finish to what had been a weekend of good food.
Out & About:
The hotel is located is the gorgeous Thames Valley and a short drive from the quintessential old market towns of Henley, Marlow and Windsor – think meandering river, tea rooms and shops selling country attire. We took a walk through the hilly countryside, stopping off at the local, Tom’s Cabin, and then passed a friendly Shire horse called Henry who powers the local horse and cart pub crawl.
Who Goes There?:
Several young couples were being shown round the wedding venue, a noisy group (discussing house prices and divorce) dined in the conservatory and we also spotted a few 30-something couples, including a woman who complained several times about the service. There’s always one.
The Best Thing:
Modish rooms with designer finishes from a modest £120.
The Worst Thing:
Perhaps the inconsistent service is a teething problem. There wasn’t anyone at reception when we arrived and no bell to grab someone’s attention. Our service at lunch was very slow and our waiter at breakfast, although polite, was slow and kept getting the orders wrong. However, it was his third day.
We were also slightly disappointed with the pool and hot tub. Neither looked inviting and someone had put a row of socks to dry on the step leading to the hot tub, which is located in a log cabin rather than outside.
