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Le Meurice, Paris

Olivia Allwood-Mollon on the opulence, fine-dining and celestial bathrooms of Le Meurice

The Credentials:

Perfect for a romantic break, Le Meurice is swathed in culture and history. The first Parisian palace to open as a hotel, dating back to 1771, it transports its guests straight to Versaille.

Slap-bang next to the Louvre, Musee d’Orsee, Seine, and the Jardin des Tuileries, the palace is the prime location for a Parisian getaway.

Dine:

The hotel has two restaurants; the gastronomic Le Meurice, and the more low-key Dali restaurant. Both appeal to the French gourmand. Head chef Yannick Alleno has been at the palace since 2003 and received his third Michelin star in 2007.

An exact replica of the Salon de la Paix at Versailles, the fine-dining Le Meurice restaurant is an amalgamation of bronze, marble, and frescoes. The Dali restaurant features Surrealist tables and chairs by Philippe Starck and unfortunately, a vast, and hideous ceiling canvas painted by his daughter.

A stroll across the river and the Latin Quarter is filled with late opening brasseries, bars and bistros. We headed out for a scenic midnight wander culminating in authentic steak frites and copious merlot. The following morning we opted for breakfast in our suite. A selection of delectable pastries, fruit salad, pineapple, cereals and exquisite fruit juices accompanied mint tea, fresh coffee, omelettes, poached eggs, bacon and fried tomatoes. All were delicious.

Sleep:

On arrival the room appeared light and airy, but the naff and incongruent chinoiserie cushions were promptly resigned to the wardrobes. Our deluxe suite was fairly neutral. Adorned with raw silk walls, a transparent calico sheet hung over a bay window, then set back on a semi-circular curtain rail lay the thickest, heaviest drape curtains I had ever seen.

The macaroons supplied gratis gave Ladurée a run for their money, but on consulting room service appeared necessary. Everything about Le Meurice screams opulence, from the lavish infinity-thread count Egyptian cotton bedding to the extortionate minibar prices (€18 for a single shortbread biscuit).

The palace has a wide selection of suites in different, but sympathetic styles. My personal favourite was the sumptuous oak-panelled Dali Suite, where the artist stayed for a month every year for over three decades.

Who Goes There?

Visited by everyone from Queen Victoria to long-time resident Salvador Dali, Rudyard Kipling to Jane Fonda, Coco Chanel to Angelina Jolie, Elizabeth Taylor to Eminem to Kanye West. Picasso held his wedding here and last year Beyonce and Jay-Z set up residence in its Belle Etoile penthouse suite. Despite its high profile and varied clientele, the palace is renowned for its discretion. We passed several suites with unobtrusive bodyguards slumbering on chairs at their door.

There was a Chanel event at the hotel while we were there, but the majority of guests epitomised understated old school Aristo-chic. Brits and French prevailed; we could hop on the Eurostar and be at the hotel within a couple of hours so there was a considerable British contingent. To start your trip as you mean to go on, we’d recommend their standard premier class, if you can’t stretch to a private jet.

Out & About:

Paris needs little introduction. Beyond the world-famous gardens, museums and galleries, a hike to Sacre Coeur at the top of Montmartre allows incredible views across the city. If you can’t handle the 300-plus steep wooden steps up the hill take the funicular (tram) from the Place Saint-Pierre.

On our second night a Parisian friend took us to her favourite bar, La Perle. Nestled on a quiet corner in the fashionable Marais district, mismatched wooden furniture, a piss-drenched lavatory and art school kids gave it a grittier, authentic feel. Full of young creatives, I was surprised to learn it had been the site of Galliano’s notorious drunken outburst.

The Best Thing:

The hotel’s low-lit drinking den, Le Bar 228, regularly tops the world’s best bar lists and failed to disappoint. Combining something of Claridges’ Fumoir, and Toulouse Lautrec’s depiction of the Moulin Rouge, it is a combination of polished walnut, leather and expensive scotch. Revamped by Philippe Starck, mirrored and lit with alter candles of differing heights, it was aesthetically faultless. Featuring restored Lavalley paintings and a hand-painted ceiling, the Actor exclaimed he ‘felt like an international man of mystery’ while he sat waiting for his lady of the night (I’d simply popped to the extremely grand loo). There was live jazz piano throughout the evening, and the bar remained pleasingly uncrowded.

The bathrooms were celestial. Our room was lovely; our bathroom was exquisite. Imported Italian marble was used for the walls, fittings and floor tiles. Deep charcoal swirls on clean white stone contrasted with silver fittings giving it a fresh, polished and classic appeal. Linen drapes fluttered in the breeze over a double window. Twin basins and a generously proportioned glass shower overlooked the bath. The two-foot deep bathtub featured a tarnished envelope-shaped waterfall in place of a tap. It wasn’t until the Actor noticed a tiny red light in the corner of an inconspicuous mirror set deep in the marble wall that we realised it was actually a television.

Ample towels, robes and slippers added to the comfort quota. Details such as free standing Edwardian towel-rails and tasteful silver soap dishes gave it a homely, welcoming feel, far removed from the corporate décor of some five-star hotels.

The Worst Thing:

Despite the marvellous bathroom, the ancient plumbing was a little dubious and showers, basin and bath taps all gave up the ghost just as I was shampooing my hair.

The restaurant, minibar and room service prices were exclusive to say the least. Single boiled egg at €12 anyone? A Brit abroad surely needs soldiers, but bread to accompany was an additional €13.

The Details:

La Vie en Rose package (from €840 per night) includes accommodation and American breakfast, rosé Champagne, pink petit fours, roses, late check out, upgrade upon availability, access to hammam, sauna, Jacuzzi and fitness centre.

Rates per room and per night, based on a double occupancy, including all taxes (VAT, service and city tax). Subject to availability. May not be used in conjunction with other offers.

Le Meurice, 228 Rue de Rivoli, 75001, Paris; www.lemeurice.com; +33 144581010

Eurostar operates up to 18 daily services from London St Pancras International to Paris with return fares from £69. Fastest London-Paris journey time is two-hour and 15 minutes. For a more luxurious experience, use of the Premier lounge and a light meal on board opt for Standard Premier. Fares start from £189 return; www.eurostar.com or 08432 186 186