The Credentials:
This family-run five-star country house hotel is set in 25 acres of stunning Perthshire countryside, famous for its lochs, rivers and glens. The house was built in 1840, and exudes an Edwardian elegance – think wood panelling, open fireplaces, antique furnishings and curiosities (a real elephant’s foot provides a giant plant holder in the pretty conservatory).
Check out the portrait gallery at the top of the oak-panelled staircase, wander in the Victorian walled garden (where I stole a few raspberries) and relax with a drink in one of the rooms.
Dine:
Kinloch House belongs to the Relais & Chateaux collection so we were expecting fine food, but we were still pleasantly surprised. The daily changing, locally-sourced menu is excellent and special dietary needs are catered for.
My vegetarian menu could satisfy any carnivorous foodie – indeed the boyf also chose the asparagus with parmesan, rocket and aged balsamic vinegar to start. My main of leek and cheddar pancakes with root vegetables, spinach and an Arran mustard sauce (admittedly the boyf chose guinea fowl with fondant potatoes, wild mushrooms, white turnip, broad beans and a thyme sauce instead) was both light and flavoursome (perfectly suited to the unusually hot weather) while my vanilla panna cotta (served with fresh blueberries) was luxuriantly creamy.
There’s a good selection for breakfast – we enjoyed sweet local Essendy strawberries followed by perfect poached eggs and toasted fruit bread.
Sleep:
All 15 rooms are individually yet classically styled with antique furniture and fine fabrics, plus yummy Arran Aromatic toiletries in the bathroom. Our bright and spacious front-facing junior suite overlooked a field of horses with hills beyond. We liked the fact that internet is free and bottles of water were left out in our room. I would have liked a separate shower but only noticed the lack of mini bar because it’s my job to notice.
Who Goes There?
The house attracts a loyal following of regular guests including well-heeled Brits. The 100-strong fine wine list and top-notch food ensures a French, as well as a local, following and I was reliably informed that the house is also popular with the Spanish, Brazilians and Argentines.
Out & About:
The bride and groom whose wedding had brought us to Perthshire had no familial connection to the area, which indicates just how stunning the area is. Kinloch House sits in an elevated position in the hamlet of Kinoch between the red brick town of Blairgowrie and historic Dunkeld while the Victorian town of Pitlochry, famous for its Festival Theatre, is a scenic 30-minute drive away. Even at night we spotted deer, hedgehogs and plenty of roadside rabbits during our return drive from Pitlochry.
Kinloch House is a popular base for shooting and fishing (there’s a Sportsman’s Room complete with gun safe, cleaning equipment, dog baskets and a chest freezer for freshly caught fish plus plenty of Wellies line the entrance). During our short stay we squeezed in a woodland walk to Black Linn Fall (there’s also a short walk along a steep rocky path that clings to the edge of a gorge with views of the Falls of Bruar near Blair Atholl); Blair Castle (its weapon-adorned entrance hall and dining room are particularly impressive); House of Bruar (known as the Harrods of the North); Iain Burnett The Highland Chocolatier for lunch and award-winning truffles; and a quick stop at Aberfeldy Distillery.
The Worst Thing:
Meal times are pretty strict: breakfast is served between 8.30am and 9.30am (although we didn’t feel rushed despite arriving at 9.25am); lunch is between 12.30pm and 1.45pm; dinner is at 7pm until 8.30pm. We were also required to return to the hotel by midnight as there isn’t a night porter. However, due to the countryside location we didn’t feel restricted, particularly when you consider that these rules not only ensure there’s a buzz in the dining room but that prices are kept reasonable – a small team runs a tight ship.
The Best Thing:
The service was exemplary. Staff were welcoming, friendly and knowledgeable. Tea and cake were brought out to us while we sat outside minutes after arriving and when the boyf discovered that the bar didn’t sell cigarettes, our waitress offered her own. It took some persuasion for her to finally except a packet as a thank you the following day.
