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Grand Toplice Hotel, Lake Bled, Slovenia

Naomi Bryant admires the unrivalled views at Slovenia's 'fairytale-magical' Grand Toplice Hotel, Lake Bled

The Credentials:

Set in the stunning alpine resort of Bled (Bled Castle is located directly opposite and stands above the lake with the Julian Alps in the background), just 35km from Ljubljana airport, the Grand Hotel Toplice has a rich history of hosting political and diplomatic guests and events in its elegant surroundings. In 1919, a Slovenian, Jula Molnar, bought the hotel; she gave it its current name and King Alexander I of Yugoslavia declared it his summer residence.

The hotel boosts three unique restaurants, a spa (with thermal pool), a private lido and 87 rooms, including 33 luxury suites. Rowing boats are available for guests to use to venture to the island.

Dine:

Breakfast offered lots of variety and could be eaten while enjoying the spectacular lake view under the chestnut trees.

Juliana’s is partly set on a peaceful terrace with lake view. It was my least favourite of my two Toplice restaurant experiences. I was given little guidance on the menu and my waiter twice asked which wine I would like without offering me the menu or wine list. My starter of scallops, baby corn cream and truffle dressing (€19) was good but a little on the salty side. However, the main of wild sea bass, herb risotto, turnip and apple (€24) was very good. I wasn’t able to have dessert as all options contained milk or cream and no alternative was offered.

Gourmet Promenada is celebrity chef Bine Volcic’s flagship restaurant and a short stroll from the main hotel. The cuisine was creative, modern and delicious and the menu changes frequently to reflect local seasonal ingredients. I enjoyed a warm salad of king prawn, carrot and ginger puree, crab oil, grilled romana and violet flowers (€11) and sea bass, artichoke, bell peppers with baked parmesan (€21). My dessert was a wonderful trio of sorbets: peach and elderflower, raspberry and tarragon, and lemon. A local, 2007 Slovenian rose, Pinky Chick, was recommended to accompany. It was a little on the sweet side but did complement my dinner perfectly.

Sleep:

My expansive suite was classically furnished with parquet floors, traditional furniture and paintings. The bathroom was huge and I had a choice of two widescreen TVs. It was perfectly comfortable but perhaps missing any additional or unique features that would have enticed me to spend further time there. I preferred spending time on the sunbed of my private terrace, savouring the magnificent view.

Who Goes There?

The whole of Galatassaray were waiting to check out after a summer camp when I arrived. Regular visitors include Bank Ki Moon, Prince Edward and Donald and Melania Trump. Heather Mills used Toplice as a hideaway during her divorce (although I wouldn’t recommend Lake Bled for anyone going through a divorce or break-up; it’s a very healing place but ‘80s-era romantic music is played everywhere – think Lionel Ritchie and Phil Collins).

Out & About:

The island of Bled, located in the middle of the lake and accessible by pletna or rowing boat, is a must. According to local tradition, if you get married in the island’s 17th century church, the groom must carry the bride up 99 steps, ring the bell (dating from 1534) and then make a wish. More recently, there have been reports of couples sharing the carrying in the name of equality.

It takes two hours to walk the full perimeter of the lake. Stop to visit the church, take the woodland path up to the 11th century Bled Castle and for an almost bird’s eye view of the lake, venture 2,250ft to Osojnica viewpoint. I had a delightful seafood salad (€10) and opera cake (€4) at lake-side Villa Preseren.

Travel west for an enchanting trip to The Emerald Trail, where The Chronicles of Narnia were filmed. The entrance to stunning Vintgar Gorge is 4km from bled, the trail leads through the gorge along wooden bridges for 1,600m ending at the highest waterfall in Slovenia. Triglav, Slovenia’s highest mountain, lies at the heart of Triglav National Park, where you’ll find numerous hiking trails and the glacial Lake Bohinij (popular for winter sports). For adrenalin junkies, there is the opportunity to experience canyoning or tubing. There is also a small casino frequented by Italians nearby.

The Worst Thing:

The large impractical wooden room keyring weighed me down and there weren’t any English magazines in the spa area.

The Best Thing:

The whole of Lake Bled and the hotel is fairytale-magical – the view of the lake, island, castle and church was unrivalled. Staff and locals alike were genial and warm. I could have happily stayed for weeks.

The Details:

Grand Hotel Toplice, Sava Turizem d.d., Sava Hotels & Resorts, Sava Hoteli Bled, Cankarjeva 6, 
Bled 4260, Slovenia

Suites from €244 including breakfast. The hotel offers monthly special offers ranging from catering to weddings to simple overnights and spa treatments. Please check the website for further details.

www.sava-hotels-resorts.com/en/bled; info.shr@sava.si