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Baur au Lac, Zurich

Chris Heasman finds peace and serenity (plus lavish luxury) in the centre of bustling Zurich at Baur au Lac

The Credentials:

Sitting on the edge of Lake Zurich’s busy northern shore, Baur au Lac’s history goes back much further than any of the chic bars or glitzy boutiques that surround it. The hotel was first established in 1844 by Johannes Baur, a Swiss hotelier who wished to open a villa with an unmatched perspective of the lake and nearby mountains. At the time, there really wasn’t much to be found on the land now occupied by Zurich’s southernmost districts — meaning the new hotel enjoyed arguably the best views in the city. Naturally, Europe’s wealthiest came flocking; King Ludwig I of Bavaria, Carl XVI of Sweden, Queen Sonja of Norway, Emperor Haile Selassie of Ethiopia, and Empress Elisabeth of Austria all took up lodgings in the hotel at some time or another.

Today, Baur au Lac — which is far, far bigger than it was in 1844, thanks to a number of extensions constructed in the late 19th century — is owned and run by Johannes’ descendants. And although the clientele is no longer exclusively made up of aristocrats and celebrities, Baur au Lac now holds something of a reputation as the hotel of choice for the big bad wolves of Swiss business. The whole place is staggeringly regal and deeply luxurious, of course, but (whether by design or by coincidence) the hotel’s relatively innocuous entrance and lakeside position gives it a curiously secluded feel. It’s as if, somehow, the hotel’s original purpose as a sleepy hideaway has still been retained — despite the thriving city that grew around it.

Sleep:

Your standard double room at the Baur au Lac is as good as anything you’ll otherwise find in central Zurich. These rooms tend to average out about 380 square feet, and come with views of either the Schanzengraben Canal (which runs parallel to the hotel), the city itself or the hotel’s own inner courtyard. The city views aren’t anything particularly special, but the courtyard is tranquil and the canal is quite beautiful.

Opt for a suite, however, and things become rather more spectacular. The junior suites sit on the higher floors of the hotel and tend to come with better views (with the Junior Suite Lakeside offering a tantalizing taste of what the higher-end suites have to offer) and more than enough space to keep you happy for a long stay.

And then there’s the Deluxe Corner Suite. I was only offered a heartbreaking glimpse inside the hotel’s finest room, but god — what a glimpse it was. This small apartment is exquisitely decorated, bright, spacious and looks out over the hotel’s private park, the canal and Lake Zurich itself. Obviously, it won’t come cheap (expect to pay around £4,000 a night for the privilege) but, considering you’d be staying in arguably the best room in one of the best hotels in one of the most stylish and lavish cities in the world, it’s hard to say it wouldn’t be worth it.

Dine:

Baur au Lac has plenty of options for diners, both casual and formal. The Restaurant Pavillon is a two Michelin-starred restaurant that, according to the hotel, offers a “21st-century interpretation of classic haute cuisine.” Summer visitors, however, might choose to eat at the Baur au Lac Terrasse, as we did. This outdoor terrace is situated on the edge of the hotel’s private gardens, and offers all kinds of light dining options — think salads, fish, chicken and vegetable dishes — as well as your usual impressive array of wines, cocktails and other drinks. It’s not cheap, of course, but it’ll make less of a dent in your bank account than the Pavillon. And considering just how hectic Zurich can get, you’re unlikely to find an outdoor dining experience anywhere inside the city that feels quite so quiet and hidden away. It’s genuinely lovely.

Out and About:

You shouldn’t struggle, here. It may not feel like it, but Baur au Lac sits right in the heart of the busiest part of Zurich. Only a few minutes’ walk away from the hotel, you’ll find about a billion different bars and restaurants, a few dozen museums and monuments, some of the city’s most esteemed shops (such as Tiffany and Co. and Louis Vuitton) and, of course, Lake Zurich itself.

The lake is beautiful enough on the worst of days, but in the midst of summer it’s nothing less than stunning. Whether you want to head out on a boat, walk along its shores or simply sit at a cafe and people-watch — it’s hard not to be enraptured it all.

Unless you hop on a train and head out of the city, of course. In that case, you’ll find yourself in the depths of rural Switzerland within half an hour. And that is an experience like no other.

The Worst Thing:

It’s expensive. Like, really expensive. You’re going to be set back several hundreds of pounds for even the most basic room, and the restaurants aren’t much cheaper. Considering just how expensive Zurich is as a city, of course, this is both unsurprising and unhelpful. But what are you going to do? You get what you pay for.

The Best Thing:

It has to be the atmosphere. Never have I stayed somewhere so central, and in such a chaotic place, and yet felt so utterly at peace with what was going on around me. Zurich may have blossomed into a mad, terrifying city over the last 200 years, but Baur au Lac hardly seems to have changed at all. It feels like a secret.

The Details:

Baur au Lac is a completely independent hotel, and isn’t owned or operated by any chain. A one-night stay in a Deluxe Double Room tends to cost around £620 per night (depending on exchange rates), breakfast not included. For more information, or to book, visit https://www.bauraulac.ch/en/ or call +41 44 220 50 20.