Joe's restaurant Joseph
'Elia’s playful cooking style had left us eager to return'

Joe’s

Open Tue–Sat 9am–11pm; Sun–Mon 9am–6pm

Owned by chic clothing designer, Joseph it is no surprise that the newly designed Joe’s has an elegant, stylish ambiance. The two-tiered dining area is partially separated by a homely book and wine-covered wall and at the front well-dressed ladies sip champagne.

As well as benefiting from a new look, the chic eatery has also gained a new chef in the form of TV personality, Maria Elia. Best known for her work at the critically acclaimed Delfina restaurant, Maria has a passion for experimental vegetarian cookery.

There is an excitement exuding the restaurant at the moment, with the welcoming staff eager to tell its story and that of its new star chef. Our waiter rushed over, proudly clutching Elia’s new vegetarian cookbook.

To start I ordered the carrots, red lentils and tahini yoghurt (£5.25), the al dente baby carrots were full of flavour, with delicate spices pulling the dish together and the accompanying yoghurt offering a refreshing palate cleanse. My mother enjoyed the crab, vanilla and asparagus salad (£8.25), which had an intriguing creamy sweetness, although the crab was hard to detect at times. The asparagus surprised us by coming in the form of shavings which gave it a more delicate taste.

With just six main courses on offer, the menu is concise but well balanced with each dish having a creative Elia twist.  For my main I did debate trying the intriguing strawberry and radicchio risotto but was tempted away by the pan-fried monkfish (£19.50) which came with an intense, smoky aubergine puree. The fish was moist, meaty and perfectly cooked and its light flavour was enhanced by the accompanying sweet chorizo salsa. My mother ordered the fish of the day – chargrilled grey mullet. Presented and executed beautifully, it scored full marks. Upon the knowledgeable waiter’s recommendation we also ordered a side dish of the pulse of the day (£3.50), which turned out to be quinoa with fresh, crunchy pomegranate seeds.

The desserts are unbelievably well priced, starting from just £1.50 and again the successful creative intent is clear. I ordered the strawberries and cream (£3.50) which looked stunning and came with a delicately chewy strawberry macaroon and a white chocolate and strawberry parfait – divine. We also enjoyed lavender marshmallow with chocolate sponge and mascarpone ice-cream (£3.50).

We agreed that the relaxed atmosphere, modest price point and Elia’s playful cooking style had left us eager to return.

Dinner for two, with wine, around £85.

Joe’s, 126 Draycott Avenue, SW3 ; www.joseph.co.uk/joes-cafe;  020 7225 2217

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