Open lunch Mon–Thu midday–3.30pm; Fri–Sun midday–4pm; afternoon tea Mon–Thu 2.30pm–5.30pm; Fri–Sat 3.30pm–5.30pm; dinner Mon–Sat 6pm–11pm
With commanding views over Knightsbridge, Harvey Nichols’ serene restaurant, Fifth Floor is the calm among the chaos. Above the frenzy of west London women stuffing their Vuittons with La Perla smalls and Louboutins, stands a simple, light and airy restaurant awash with classic neutral tones. On our visit the tastefully understated space was brought to life by a stunning, vivid pink floral centre piece.
The staff are attentive, welcoming, knowledgeable and keen to help. As we took in the atmosphere the champagne trolley rolled in. The wine list is impressively extensive, spanning a vast range of styles and origins, yet here it is the Champagne that should start all meals. In fact the restaurant’s attractive green and pink flushed Champagne bar adjoins the dining area. The friendly Champagne waiter helped us select a glass of fruity Perrier-Joulёt while we enjoyed our amuse bouche; crostini with a smoky tomato sauce.
Having polished off the crisp champagne rather promptly, I selected a bottle of Momo New Zealand Sauvignon (£28) which was light, elegant and fruity, perfect for a summer lunch.
To start my friend Aaron chose the pork belly (£6), which for my taste was lacking the tender, meaty layers the dish should boast. However it was succulently flavoursome and beautifully presented with a delicious apple and celeriac remoulade.
My beef starter was rich and sweet with a zingy side sauce which perfectly complimented the bitter, buttery pine nuts.
Then the star of the show arrived – my lobster (£34). Poached in butter and accompanied with a lobster lasagne, it was certainly visually impressive. The lasagne was a controversial addition. While I enjoyed its subtle flavours and unusual textures, Aaron found it a little overly gelatinous which I could understand. The lobster itself was slightly chewy at times but had a fantastic, smooth flavour which was easy to appreciate with a side of fresh grapefruit and herb salad.
Aaron’s tender loin of lamb (£24) arrived perfectly pink, swelling with juice. The tender meat had a rich, smoky quality and a great depth of flavour. Our waiter was clearly impressed with our appetite when he came to collect our spotlessly clean plates just 10 minutes later.
Despite our strained waist bands we couldn’t resist the desserts. Aaron jumped at the baked Alaska (£7.50) which to my dismay he devoured in seconds and I do not blame him – it was a triumph. It was perfectly presented with a delicate, crispy meringue encasing the creamy ice-cream and raspberry coulis. My chocolate fondant (£7.50) was clearly cooked to perfection. As my spoon ripped into it a rich, velvety chocolate sauce flooded the plate.
Fifth Floor is a delightful dining experience; precise, understated seasonal dishes served in a relaxed and refined atmosphere (and all just seconds away from a Champagne bar and an unlimited supply of designer shoes), what more could a west London girl want.
Meal for two with wine around £100.
