The credentials:
The landscape of southern Iceland is a breathtaking and awe-inspiring thing, almost prehistoric in its bleakness. Eerie plains of black rock give way to windswept grasslands and towering glacier-edged mountains in less time than it takes the flip the page of the guidebook. It’s like a European version of the Wild West; genuine frontier country.
Rising out of this flat, grassy bleakness is the Hotel Rangà, southern Iceland’s only four-star luxury resort. Both highly decorated—it has won Best International Resort Hotel, Best Sustainable Hotel Europe and Best Hotel Iceland at the International Hotel Awards—and patronised by the A-list, even native Icelanders raise an appreciative eyebrow at the name.
Though on face value it looks more like an upmarket ski chalet than a luxury hotel, that’s not to its detriment; what it may lack in overt ‘chic’ it more than makes up for with a warm welcome and a seductive cosiness. And perhaps most importantly—if luck is with you—the Rangà is in prime position for viewing the Northern Lights. Though they are famously elusive, the hotel specialises in providing aurora forecasts and offers optional ‘aurora wake up calls’ for guests if they appear in the small hours. Body-shaped sleeping bags are also provided so you can sit out on your private porch in the cold to watch the spectacle in comfort. And for the keen stargazer the Rangà even has its own observatory! (I mean, who doesn’t fancy a peek at the surface of Saturn after dinner?)
Dine:
Given that you are over an hour’s drive away from Reykjavik (and the nearest towns don’t exactly spoil you for dining options) it’s a relief that the restaurant at the Rangà is not merely good, it is frankly exceptional.
The menu is seasonal and based on a ‘Farmers Market’ philosophy according to the head chef—local ingredients used in season—“modern Nordic cuisine with a Mediterranean twist”. Portions are pretty as a picture but generous enough to stretch the waistband, and if the prices are a little eye-watering, the fact is that food throughout most of Iceland is (but nowhere else so thoroughly deserved the price tag).
The traditional Icelandic fare when we visited included langoustine soup and smoked puffin, though we opted for starters of a positively dreamy reindeer carpaccio (I’ve never seen the other half so disappointed he had to share), and a fresh-from-the-river Icelandic char (a relative of salmon). Our main portions were a meltingly soft lamb shank and a richly flavoursome beef cheek you could have cut with a spoon. The accompanying sides—creamy onion puree, buttery pearl barley, crispy potatoes—simply couldn’t be faulted. Dinner conversation was halted almost entirely, we were in such food heaven!
It’s an eclectic international wine list, but what they have they seem to have chosen impeccably, and the smooth, light taste of the native beer has made me a new fan of a tall, cold Golden Viking (the beer that is, though Alexander Skarsgård wouldn’t go amiss with dinner).
When it came to breakfast the Rangà continued to deliver. The handsome buffet spread included all manner of smoked fish, fresh fruit, yoghurt, fry-up options, but best of all a DIY waffle maker (be prepared to queue and guard your pancake from all comers).
Sleep:
The hotel has 52 rooms onsite, 24 standard and 20 deluxe, as well as several luxury suites themed for the seven continents. These ‘World Pavilion’ suites are singular works of art, each totally unique and quirkily decorated; from the animal-patterned bonanza of ‘Africa’ to the cool simplicity of ‘Asia’ (apparently a favourite of Charlize Theron).
Meanwhile, though both the standard and deluxe rooms aren’t exactly what you’d call cutting edge—the decor could use a bit of updating and the flat-screen television had only a few basic terrestrial channels—they more than compensate with a rustic-chic cosy charm. They’re generously sized, with big, soft beds (though plump for the deluxe if you fancy a little more floor space and an equally generous bathroom, equipped with a roomy whirlpool tub).
While ours looked out over the bleak north and the Mt. Hekla volcano (the best side for viewing the lights apparently) the south-facing rooms have slightly larger outside porches, which makes them much more convenient if you fancy a dive into one of three outdoor hot tubs. Again, while these hot tubs aren’t especially luxurious, there was something uniquely delightful about their compact simplicity. Lying in the gorgeously warm water staring up at a milky-starred sky was an arguably more genuine delight than swanky poolside service (the diners in the restaurant may have disagreed with me, however, as the dining room provides a prime view of the tubs).
Who goes there?
Americans! There were so many Americans you’d think the claim you can walk from Iceland to America was actually true. There were several big groups staying when we were—extended families of multiple generations and rowdy groups of friends travelling together. As far as the couples market goes, we seemed the youngest by a good decade.
Out & about:
The Rangà is the perfect base to explore the incredible southern Icelandic landscape, with hot springs, volcanoes, glaciers and beaches just a short drive away on every side.
The famous Golden Circle is not to be missed, which includes the magical Þingvellir National Park, the impressive geysers at Geysir (the Icelandic word is where all the other big jets of hot water get their name from, don’t you know), and the awe-inspiring falls at Gullfoss. For a waterfall you can walk behind, drive in the other direction to the gorgeous Seljalandsfoss and the rainbow-decorated Skogafoss. If you’re an outdoors type consider hiking or taking a snow ski up onto Europe’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull. Animal lovers can go puffin watching on the black beaches of Reynisfjara, or take a ride on one of the small but sturdy Icelandic ponies.
The worst thing:
Fellow guests: raucous, inconsiderate and entitled. Not really the Rangà’s fault, but it is worth mentioning as it ruined every communal area. The upstairs bar—low-lit by candles and with an abundance of large leather couches—was unbearable on the busy Saturday night, but a calm delight on the quieter Sunday.
The best thing:
Reindeer carpaccio! Not something I ever imagined I’d praise so effusively. But on a more all-encompassing note, the restaurant at the Rangà should be a destination in its own right—even if that destination is over an hour’s drive outside the capital.
