The Credentials:
In the ‘60s Beirut was known as the playground of the Middle East for Arabs and the Hollywood elite. The opening of the Four Seasons in January 2010 marks a return to political stability and is helping to claim back Beirut’s reputation as the ‘Paris of the Middle East.’
The tower building is a sleek modern landmark on the edge of the Mediterranean. It boasts all the usual amenities, style and service of the renowned five-star chain, but its rooftop pool and bar – with a 360-degree view of Beirut – offers the wow factor.
Dine:
The spacious Grill Room is plush – think top-notch oversized furnishings in tones of cream, gold, dark brown and black and there’s also a terrace (unfortunately it currently overlooks a building site). There’s pretty much anything you could possibly want available for breakfast. We loved the Lebanese platter (labnek with crudites, Arabic pitta bread and cheeses) brought to our table each morning, plus the super fresh fruit.
The Tennis Player felt bad for the head chef of the modern steakhouse, Giancarlo Gottardo, who discovered I’m vegetarian. TP was clearly impressed with his perfectly crisp and tender US prime fillet tenderloin (about £27). For once I didn’t feel left out in a meat-heavy restaurant; my frisée and green bean salad starter (about £8.90) had a delightful truffle vinaigrette and the sides of vegetables were interesting dishes in themselves, including creamy green lentils; chargrilled courgettes, peppers and asparagus; and cauliflower with cashew nuts and onions. Save room for dessert: Lebanese pastry chef Charle Azzar is pretty famous. We greedily asked for a second helping of his handmade chocolates.
Sleep:
The luxurious design is classic and elegant; the beds are amazingly comfortable and the spacious marble bathrooms feature a deep soaking tub, a separate glass-walled shower and a WC enclosed in an alcove.
Who Goes There?
Surgery-enhanced, designer-clad London-based Lebanese mothers with their families (and nannies in tow); stylish gay couples and international jet setters.
Out & About:
The Lebanese hospitality is legendary (ask locals what the current happening places are); we ate far too much at the edge of a very good hilltop Lebanese restaurant, Fakher Al Dean, before gatecrashing a wedding which had taken over the restaurant. Sky Bar is currently the place to pose (there’s a two-month waiting list for a table) and effortlessly cool Parisian-Algerian restaurateur Mourad Mazouz has recently opened Momo At The Souks. We also explored Jeita Grotto (karstic limestone caves) and took a boat on its underground river.
The Best Thing:
Almost intuitive service. I also don’t think I’ll ever experience a better massage (Mediterranean experience; $152 for one hour) than the one my Thai therapist (aptly called Gift) gave me.
The Worst Thing:
This is nit-picking, but I have to admit that the Beirut Four Seasons hotel rooms are smaller than the regular Four Seasons standard. Plus, our room overlooked a building site – Beirut is still rising from its history of conflict.
The Details:
Read: Hg2, A Hedonist’s guide to… Beirut (£13.99) is a stylish, easy-to-browse guide written by local experts.
Rates at Four Seasons Hotel Beirut start at USD413 per room per night on a room-only basis, based on two people sharing (including all taxes); www.fourseasons.com/beirut; 00800 6488 6488
