Open Tue–Sun midday–2.45pm and 6pm–10.45pm; Mon–Sat 6pm–10.45pm; Sun 6pm–9.45pm
I used to dine at Indian restaurant Zaika regularly and I was pleased to find little had changed on my return visit. Located in a former bank, it’s an impressive space – double-height windows, intricate stonework, wood panelling and large tables. There’s an inviting bar area with rich crimson and purple velvet, beyond which is the grand restaurant area.
There’s an excellent cocktail list (the apple martini and the Mojitos – £9 each – are recommended). We thought we’d better stick to a bottle of wine. The tome lists 900 – from both new and old world plus some from more unusual locations including Georgia, Morocco and India. We chose a Chablis premier cru ‘Montée de Tonnerre’ 2009 (£59.50).
The kitchen is headed by Jasbinder Sing who has worked for the Dalai Lama as well as for a number of five-star hotels. It’s nearly as difficult to navigate the sophisticated Anglo-Indian food menu which boasts a pre-theatre ‘Swadwala’ menu (two courses £22.50; three courses £27); a six-course tasting menu (£47; £76 including matching wines); seafood tasting; vegetarian and a lot more. Plus, the lovely staff are happy to let you mix and match.
Our lentil soup amuse bouche arrived with a swirl of mint and a crispy lentil pakora. My friend’s starter of three-way (poached; crusted with spice plus Seared and seasoned) hand-dived Scottish scallops (£16) were ‘unbelievably fresh’ and I had potato chaat – beautifully presented and having the perfect combination of crispy potato tikki coated with flaky almonds, sweet tamarind chutney and subtly spicy chick peas (£8.25). Starters were followed by a refreshing pineapple and coconut granite. My friend’s main of tandoori king prawns (£21.50) boasted ‘delicate, subtle flavours’ while my vegetable platter boasted an excellent variety of outstanding aromatic small dishes including garlic and cumin-tempered okra, paneer with onion and capsicum, black lentils, spinach and potatoes, pulao rice, baby naan and raita (£16.95).
I’ve never been a fan of Asian desserts but Zaika’s interesting choices were tempting. My chocolate silk (£6.50) – rich pinekernal, cashew and pistachio brittle with silky chocolate mousse perfectly complemented by masala tea ice cream – beat my friend’s tandoori saffron pineapple (£6.50). We didn’t think the fennel and saffron really worked with the pineapple although the accompanying coconut, yoghurt and vanilla cheesecake was good. Despite feeling like I couldn’t eat another morsel I couldn’t help trying a fluffy mini fairy cake from the selection of petit fours.
Zaika has been around for over 12 years, but it offers consistently innovative food and impeccable service in vibrant yet luxurious surroundings.
Meal for two, with wine, around £120.
