Open Mon midday–10.30pm, Tue–Thu midday–11pm, Fri and Sat midday–11.45pm and Sun midday–5pm
The hustle and bustle of South Kensington gives way to a smart, calm restaurant right on the corner of Old Brompton Road. Madsen is a Scandinavian restaurant, hence the cool lines and minimal decoration of the Nordic design. Wooden chairs and tables are lit from hanging sculpted lamps. The huge windows overlook busy traffic, but on a balmy evening it’s nice to able to sit outside (where blankets are provided instead of un-environmentally friendly heaters). Early on a Tuesday evening there were groups of friends enjoying a drink after work and, as the night progressed, more tourists and foreigners looking for something to eat.
The menu at Madsen changes with the season and is a mixture of Scandinavian specialities and more generic British dishes. My dining partner and I were keen to stick to the Nordic dishes. I chose sweet-cured herring (£6.95) which was delicious and a class above the usual vinegary fillets, although the accompanying potato salad was a bit disappointing. Our other starter was large Greenland prawns (£6.95) which were again very fresh, but the homemade mayonnaise on the side was seriously lacking; the texture was very glutinous and the taste not much better.
For my main course I chose frikadeller (£13.95) which are Danish, pork meatballs. Forget Ikea meatballs, these were their highly refined cousin. For my own taste the smooth consistency of the meat reminded me a bit of chicken nuggets but apparently this is the Scandinavian style and they were good, but lacked any kick. The creamy, green cabbage was quite bland, but the slices of home-pickled cucumber gave the dish some much-needed sharpness. My friend’s pan-fried fillet of plaice (£13.50) was perfectly cooked and very fresh. Sides at £3.95 a pop were recommended; we went for beetroots in a horseradish crème which were sadly unexciting. Coleridge Hill, an English white wine (£6.60 for 175ml), recommended to us, was a delightful surprise. Very crisp and smooth, it was complimented the light food perfectly.
For dessert I tried the Danish apple trifle (£6.50) which was good, but nothing spectacular and my friend had the vanilla meringue topped with whipped cream and fresh strawberries (£5.95) which is never the most exciting of puddings and could have done with a bit of sparkle.
Ingredients which were left to their own devices – such as the herring and prawns – were delicious, but others which involved more cooking lacked a certain sparkle and imagination. I would have expected a bit more from the kitchen, especially when the prices are relatively high. The two waiting staff (one of whom was the owner) could also have done with a bit of help; our meal took nearly two hours and we had started before the rush. However, the local Swedes clearly enjoy this small slice of home in South Kensington and with such a central location, I’m sure that Madsen will never be short of guests.
