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'The best chips I have ever had' at 101 Pimlico Road
'The best chips I have ever had' at 101 Pimlico Road

101 Pimlico Road

Open Mon–Sat midday–3pm and 6pm–10.30pm, Sun midday–3pm and 6pm–9.30pm

The location suggests that the owners are optimistic about picking up some of the trade that will be in this part of town to pick up beautiful objets d’art, surrounded as they are on all sides by antique shops and art galleries. Tiago, the incredibly enthusiastic assistant manager, assured me that they were actually keen to become a favourite with the locals, with the lunch menu changing every two days. The clientele were mostly in their 40s and 50s and well to do; that blue spotted braces are still worn without irony here seemed entirely appropriate.

101 feels modern and smart. It has several bland canvasses dotted around but there are sweet additions, such as small bunches of wild flowers on the tables. In any case the neutral decor lets you concentrate on the food, which is very good. The mozzarella that turned up torn and decorated with cauliflower, basil and radish (£9) was surprisingly delicate and subtly, satisfyingly salty. The pretty plate had a painterly, abstract colour palate, with the red radish skin and green basil dressed with tiny edible Mexican marigolds. Another delight was the dressing that came with the organic salmon (£10). The flavour of the fish hardly needed anything but the accompanying lime crème fraiche was exactly tart enough, neither overpowering nor underwhelming.

Grilled quail turned up looking like it was at an S&M party for food, splayed open (butterflied) and wearing charred stripes from the grill. It was resting on crushed new potatoes with cucumber spinach and mint (£17), a dish which chimed well with the start of summer. The tender, honey flesh of the little critter was lip-smackingly tasty. Having heard good stuff about them I had to taste their truffle hand cut chips (£4) presented very cutely in their own mini, wire basket. They are a total winner – the best chips I have ever had and food which I would go out of my way for.

A tonka bean was presented to me before I had the crème brulee (£6) bearing its flavour. The bean smacked of vanilla; sadly, it was not discernible in the pudding, which was fantastically silky and light. Similarly, I could taste no champagne in the jelly (£6), which was too sweet and undeserving of inclusion alongside otherwise great food. Though it’s a little expensive, the locals can probably afford it and hopefully they’ll support what is a good neighbourhood restaurant.

Dinner for two around £100.

101 Pimlico Road, SW1, London; www.101pimlicoroad.co.uk; 020 7730 0203

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